Irwin Tools IRWIN 10-Inch Miter Saw Blade, Classic Series, Steel Table (11870)

I used this blade with a corded SKIL 5280 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw to cut backer board for a shower reno in my house. I cut mostly half inch and a few sheets of quarter inch Durock, total of about 12 sheets, but including a bunch of small pieces for a shower niche and a bench. I was on the fence about buying this because it's expensive (almost as much as the saw!) and because I had previously been able to do an adequate (but slow and painful) job cutting Durock using a razor knife (and a whole bunch of blades) on another job around the house. But I was looking for something that was (a) faster, (b) cut a cleaner edge and (c) didn't wear me out so much to use - so I took the leap. I'd say this blade fit all 3 counts. (a) It literally chews through Durock. Occasionally it'd hit a hard spot and would take a second to catch, but by and large the Durock was toast. It was really fast, it probably cut through a full 5' in maybe 10-15 seconds. This is several times faster than I can go with a razor knife (scoring, then cracking, then cutting again ...) - especially as those razor knife blades get dulled up after seems like just a couple cuts. (b) The edges were really clean. I clamped a guide board along the Durock to keep the saw straight, and it had absolutely no problem keeping straight. No waving edges to have to go back later and clean up in place. If you were really in a hurry, you could probably use it freehand, since it didn't struggle at all cutting the material. Overall those really clean edges made fitting them together much easier and greatly reduced the amount of time I had to spend scraping little protuberances to make all the sheets fit together. (c) I'm 39 - which I consider not real old, but also not real young, and anything I can do at this point to save my arm and shoulder some stress is welcome. This thing just took a lot of the effort out of the job. Hand cutting, especially with a dulled up razor, is something I'm happy to minimize. It just made it much less taxing of a job. The one blade lasted the entire job and I couldn't tell any difference in cutting from beginning to end. I'm assuming I'll be able to use it on my next project. There were a couple downsides: - It did make a lot of dust and blew bits of board off at high speed, and it was loud as all get-out. As others have said - wearing a mask, goggles and ear protection is a must. I did all the cutting outside the garage, I'm not sure I'd use it indoors unless it was really well ventilated. - It's expensive Overall, I would definitely buy again despite my angst at the price point.

Worked great for cutting my vinyl blinds.

This is a great blade for basic cuts and general woodwork — clean edges and smooth performance on untreated lumber and trim. However, the moment I used it on pressure-treated wood, it started to burn and dull out quickly. It’s a good, affordable blade for light-duty work or softwoods, but if you’re planning to cut anything treated or tougher, you’ll want something more heavy-duty. Still a solid value for standard projects.

I bought this blade for a large job of cutting 3/4" and 1" thick fiber cement house trim, 3-1/2" to 11-1/4" wide. I am very satisfied as it does a very good job, it cuts the fiber cement like it was soft wood and leaves a very nice straight and smooth cut with sharp edges, even on compound miters. When cutting fiber cement, a polycrystalline blade is far superior to a standard carbide blade and is well worth the investment. It will pay off in fast, high quality cuts with less fine dust. Because it was less expensive than other brands in this blade style I was a little reluctant, but I do have a 7-1/4" Irwin fiber cement blade and it has been working well, and that made me decide to try this one. As it turned out his blade is a good performer and value, I would buy it again and highly recommend this. Like any saw blade, having a good feel for how hard to feed it helps produce those smooth and straight cuts. Although all sizes can do it, a larger blade is especially prone to wobble if the feed pressure is wrong.

I am a "hobby" woodworker but for years I have struggled with an old set of dado blades that I "inherited" somewhere. They were awful but they got me through on occasion. I now have an actual designated "wood shop" and pursue some projects that require finer touches including a few pieces of furniture. I read tons of reviews trying to settle on the best bang for my buck before buying these. I have owned and used Irwin ROUTER bits and they have performed beautifully for me, so after reading reviews for this dado set I decided to give them a try. These babies cut GORGEOUS dados!! The sides and bottom of the cuts are flat and PERFECT. I love the storage piece they came in. I love that they are not nearly as noisy as I thought they would be. In fact they're quieter than my regular table saw blades, even the fine cut 60 toothed thin kerf. Like I said to begin with, I'm not a professional woodworker, but for my money and use I don't think I could have any better than this dado set.

Before purchasing this blade I had never used a circular type blade to cut metal (besides cutoff wheels). It almost lasted until the end of my project. I was mostly cutting [A-500 Structural Steel Handrail Pipe 1-1/2" SCH 10 (1.90 OD X .109 wall)] and some smaller tube/pipe. Made about 35-45 cuts before it died. I switched to a 12inch cutoff wheel (much cheaper $10 or so) but I was still glad i started with the reviewed product. This blade made much more precise cuts (speedier too), and left the metal much cooler. This was nice because I was using a miter saw to make the cuts which was made for wood. The hot sparks from the cutoff wheel caused some damage to the plastic parts on the saw, this blade caused little to none from heat. Make sure you wear long sleeves/gloves ect. I started out with short sleeves and safety glasses (duh), and soon found the experience painful. Even goggles aren't a bad idea. The pieces aren't hot but they are decent size chunks and can get stuck in you're skin. Got one in the cheek :(. If you're going to use a miter saw for cutting with blades other than advertised for miter saws make sure you check the RPM rating. This blade was rated for 1800 RPM. Miter saw spun at 4000. Used a router speed control to turn it down. Worked fine, just some metal pieces stuck in the small spaces. Blow gun got most out.

A must have for clean cutting vinyl siding and pvc trim.

I had a lot of melamine particle board shelving to cut for making cupboard doors. I made three slow passes of the saw and increased the depth of the blade each time to cut all the way through the board. The blade did well with this technique, and I installed a new one after cutting about 32 lineal feet this way. I could tell the blade was clogging and taking a bit more effort to push along. Its not a super expensive carbide tipped blade but for the money and results, it performed well overall. For a big job, buy two.

I was looking for a fine saw blade for smooth cutting for PVC wall cladding. This did the job very well.

Utilizo está sierra para cortar aluminio y funciona excelente.

It is hard to find blades that fit my old Rockwell Beaver table saw. This one is a winner for all round use. It cuts will with a pretty good finish on the cut, both ripping and crosscut.

I'm installing vinyl board and batten sidings and this blade cuts the vinyl sidings really well. Nice clean cuts. I have this installed on a small sliding mitre saw I picked up from Lowes and it cuts a piece of board and batten horizontally without issue.