Govee Envisual LED Backlights for 75-85 inch TVs, 16.4ft RGBIC WiFi DreamView T1 TV Backlights with Camera, Works with Alexa & Google Assistant, App Control, LED Lights Scene Mode, H6199

I owned an 4K LG 65" OLED E6 (2016 model) and about 4 years ago decided to try the smaller version of Govee Immersion backlighting system with the 1080p camera and RGBIC LEDs. It worked well enough. I installed the camera on the bottom of the TV due to LG's OLED TV design where the top of the TV is just thin glass with all the electronics on the bottom 1/3. It just so happened that the width of the LG bottom was a perfect match to the width of the Govee camera clamp - a no brainer.. I calibrated the system several times using different methods from using the Govee orange stick on blocks, room lights on, TV off to the methods used by several of the Govee Immersion users on YOUTUBE- using the virtual orange blocks with TV on tuned to the Govee set up video on youtube, room lighting at the ambient level actually used when watching (or lights off if that is the way u watch TV). Got it calibrated as best I could but still had some problems with REDs or BLUEs saturation or flesh tones too red or washed out. I chalked that up to limitations with my home theater room setup, the Govee product or a combination of things.When I upgraded my 65" LG to the LG 77" C1 - I debated whether to move the system over (Govee talked me out of that - when I asked if I could just purchase a longer LED string they explained that the camera was also different - obviously - it have to "see" much larger screen surface therefore the macro "fish lens" the camera uses was different as was the length of the camera holder bar. So after looking at other systems or maybe no system at all - I decided to buy this model - 75" to 85" version - not expecting a big improvement - WAS I EVER WRONG - The longer LED sting fits better that the 65" model - probably because my TV was at the LIMIT of the smaller version whereas with larger version, my TV size is in the middle of it's range. I was able to mount the LED string approx 3/4" from the edge on all 4 sides - with the LG C1 - this kept me away from any steep angles and "humps" caused by the placement of the internal electronics - the LED strip sat flatter all around (on the 65" the bottom row of LEDs were at a worse angle causing bottom lights to have less reflective effect. The RGBIC segments are noticeably brighter than the smaller set. The LG C1 has the power indicator LED and RF remote control sensor at the bottom of TV in the exact center and the bottom thickness of the TV is too wide to support the Govee camera bracket - so I put my fabrication thinking cap on (surprised that no one I found on youtube had a decent solution). I had some 3/4" x 1/2" wood scrap in the garage and cut it to length (2.75") to fit the Govee Camera backplate. I used the sticky adhesive on the thin front lip of the camera mount that overlaps the front glass panel to keep the camera at the correct downward angle then I laid the wood narrow side (1/2" side) flat on the bracket (You can use some extra adhesive to better hold the wood to the plastic camera bracket - I used E-6000 - a very thin layer - clamped wood for a few hours if u go this route before installing on TV- so adhesive dries and doesn't get on your TV glass) moved wood brace towards back of glass until a nice snug fit - you want to be able to remove bracket/wood assembly if need be in the future. Once I has the correct spacing between the wood brace and TV glass so camera stand steady and at the correct outward angle then if using glue, mark, add thin layer of E-6000 or equivalent, clamp & wait about an hour until adhesive sets - then center on top of TV - the wood stands in back of bracket 3/4" tall, the slot that is formed between the wood (3/4" tall) and the front lip of the camera bracket (1/4" tall) is what holds the camera assembly in place on top of the TV as the LG TV Glass is what fills that slot. Neatly route cables (Camera, power, RGBIC LEDs) and attach to the connection block - make sure you take into account the movement of your TV Wall Mount system - mine moves in 8 different directions and telescopes outwards quite a bit, so where you stick this connection block is important as you don't want the wires to be pulled out of there connectors. In my case I was lucky to arbitrability leave 3/4" of glass on the outside edge of all 4 sides of the TV - this left just about the right amount of glass so that my fabricated camera clamp system worked and fit - if LED strip was any closer to the edge of the TV the LEDs would have interfered with the wood I glued to the camera bracket.Updated App/Improved 1080p Camera:I was plesantly shocked over the improvement of the Immersion system for the 75"-85" as compared to the 50"-65". I calibrated using the YOUTUBE "virtual Orange block" method and I followed the updated video instructions from both Govee & these "expert" users - the first major change in the calibration process is to make sure your TV is properly calibrated to "factory specifications" for your TV model, different picture source types - e.g. - SD (standard definition content) HD (high definition - 1080p), UHD (Ultra High Definition - 4K or 2160p), HDR (High Dynamic Resolution - HDR 10 or HDR 10+). Dolby Vision HD 1080p and Dolby Vision UHD- 4K/2160p) - with each video type if supported by your TV, would have a different set of controls/adjustments/calibration attributes - that should be properly set and saved to be used automatically next time TV switches over to that resolution. This coincides with room light = make sure you set the TV up in the room light u will be using most of the time. Calibrating Govee using YouTube method was a breeze - ran thru it several times each time to a finer degree of precision - the Govee Immersion now projects those peachy flesh tones near perfection, the updated app with the White Balance practically cures those bright Red issues- and most important is calibrating TV especially the over saturation - the Govee saturation bar no more than 20%, Intensity 80-100 & white balance to match your TV mine is slightly left of center although it depends whether I have my Blue Filter (cool white filter to reduce eyestrain) on or off - "normal" This is in fact another way to adjust the TV backlight from cool white to warm white - if u change this White Balance on Immersion app should follow, There are EXCELLENT youtube Test Videos for Immersion - some are just fun or demo to impress your friends - other are to test the hardest colors/patterns to dial-in (calibrate) - lots of good information. Either Way OUT OF THE BOX this Immersion system is far better, it's brighter, better color accuracy much improved color rendition, App provides better and faster calibration and the color changing speed and ability to follow even the most complex screen color changes in much improved as if the color processing engine was upgraded - Govee denies any major hardware improvements other than the new camera with wider lends to capture the edges of the larger screen & more LEDs & more powerful power supply to support more LEDs (I think it also makes brighter. I integrated Immersion into my home theater wifi contolled Alexa system - but find myselg using it only to fine tuning as ther is no need to constatly make adjusments like I did with previous model - EXCELLENT & WORTH IT.. Ifit is not doing everything I said it could do then u did something wrong My Main ERROR when I put the new ones on my new LG 77" is I put all new Lumary 6" Full color LED recessed lights 8 in 2 rows on ceiling and 65 Reiga smart ceiling fan with light center of room & 4 wall sconces with Treatlife full color smart lights - Camera is top mounted - when these lights are on they reflect off TV screen - I FIXED by programming Alexa when I say turn on home theater to tuen all lights t 1% intensity, fan light off, color all lights GOLD and turn off 2 ceiling and 2 wall sconces closet to TV - fixed problem (Also made me realize previous install with camera on bottom may have been impacted by wall & ceiling lights)Home Theater Room Renovation:I renovated my entire Home Theater equipment upgrade (Replaced 20 year old Onkyo DS 989 to Emotiva RMC-1, new amps reused Def Tech main Speakers but added 4 new ceiling Toshiba 10" x 4 for Dolby Atmos & all speakers received new high power (300 Watts per channel) amplification - added 1 new subwoofer (18"/500W ULD 18 Velodyne) for a total of 3 Bass Management controlled subwoofers and 3 free (speaker output level controlled) subs. Total of 17 speakers as part of home theater system and 4 outdoor speakers (Zone 2) - all Home Theater Room lights, fans, blackout window shades, including Govee Immersion TV Backlights Lights and home theater components are wi-fi controlled via Alexa. Left Ceiling White (wife would not let me change it) - Wall with TV is now Flat Navy Blue as is opposite wall where new home theater seating is Four new Valancia Tuscany Chocolate brown Recliners, power recliner, headrest, lumbar support, each with removable table, LED lighting for cup holders and control panel - also Blue LEDs under chair lighting - 2 side walls - one i outside wall with smart Ikea Gray fabric Blackout Smart Shades (Alexa Controlled - walls painted Flat Titanium - side walls - with windows and with door to Family Room - considering wood bi-fold doors for 2 wide doorways - one to rear of house Family Room the other on wall with TV to front of house main entrance and 2nd level stairway to provide better privacy/sound control - ceiling speakers also need to be better encapsulated/insulated to prevent sound to 2nd story bedrooms.

I have a 65" Sony 850E, not the best, but middle of the pack for LED TVs.I was considering updating it as it is 3 years old and the newer TV ar a bit sharper and have new technology that upscales the picture a bit better. However after reading some reviews and watching a few YouTubes on improving your home viewing experience, the one thing that was touched on over and over was the reduction of eye strain when viewing a bright TV in a dark room. Digging further into the subject, most 'Experts' recommended using TV Backlights. Looking a bit more I found that there were a lot of choices out there, ranging from around $10 - $300+. After cutting through the price vs. performance of various products, it seemed to me that the static lights that either were just a single color or you had to use a remote or app to change the colors did not relieve the eye strain as well as active lights. Active lights are different because they use input from either the HDMI port or an external source, such as a camera to 'synch' the lights response to the active picture being shown on the screen. Philips Hue is a very good system that uses a HDMI hub to capture the incoming digital information to ensure that the light reacted quickly and smoothly to whatever was on screen. This option while fast and almost decorative, can be expensive as all parts, the lights and the hub are sold separately, the upside is that all Hue products can be synchronized to work together, meaning that your Hue light bulbs can be synched with you TV lighting system to have a more immersive viewing and gaming experience. Where they fall a bit flat, other than the cost, for me is the fact that your Streaming Apps that work directly on your smart TV will not trigger the lights synching with your screen, as it is not sending anything through the HDMI ports. Yes you can get a ROKU or Fire Stick, but then, what's the point of having a smart TV? Govee push the limit and the price point a but differently. They decided to have a small HD camera 'watch' the screen and respond based on what it 'saw'. Of course the other difference between Hue and Govee is install times and methods. Hue is basically a Plug & Play solution, where you just plug your cable, game console, blu ray player into Hue's HDMI hub and the hub into the TV, download the app onto your phone/tablet, setup the standalone lights and your done. Govee is a bit more involved, I would first remove everything from the box and plug the lights, camera and power into the small hub, make sure the lights all are on. Next, look at the little arrow on the LED strip and which way it runs, as it comes as a single segmented strip, use some painters tape to arrange the strip around the rear of your TV. This will make adjustments easier so that when you strip off the plastic covering the adhesive backing, you will be more confident about it's placement. You want to try to make sure the top and bottom part of the LED strip is as even as possible. There are four corner breaks on the strip, where it can be gently twisted and bent to provide better placement. Next you are supposed to place the camera on either the top middle or bottom middle of the TV, the bracket on the camera has a real good 3M adhesive already in place. I however did not want to stick anything to the top of my TV permanently and I have and XBox Kinect already up top on this type of bracket https://tinyurl.com/y687xus9So instead I used a small Command strip hook and loop on the top of my Kinect and on the camera and stuck it on top of my Kinect. I believe raising the camera height in this manner helps the camera to 'see' more of the screen and avoids issues of color responses that I have seen others complain about. After connecting the camera, LED strip and power to the hub, I used the 7 orange spongey squares to my screen, three on each side, especially the corners an the last one at the bottom middle of the screen. I downloaded the App on my Iphone and inputted access for my WiFi. Small concern here, most phones, tablets have 5ghz capability and benefit from the speed and less crowded bandwidth. However, Govee will only recognize 2.4ghz, so in order to use the WiFi connection, you will have to go into your phone setting and change the WiFi access to 2.4ghz, it will not connect otherwise. After you get your Govee app to see the backlights, you can now turn them on or off, change how and what colors the lights display, brightness and saturation of the lights as well as set 'scenes' for mood lighting. It also features a Game mode, which seems to force a faster response for the camera, where as the Movie mode, lets the colors transition more smoothly and seems to flow with the picture displayed. Next, with the TV off, you go into the settings icon, on the top right portion of the app and then choose, 'Calibration'. Just follow the instructions and try to make sure that you get all 7 orange squares within the 5 points that they give you. Also note, if you tend to watch black and white or monochrome older films and shows, the camera gets confused and will display the lights more towards the purple\blue end of the light spectrum, more purple as the screen shows blacks. There were complaints from early version that the device did not correctly interpret greens or orange colors, that seems to either have been fixed or the simple fact that I have my camera mounted about 7" above the screen and the newer H6199 version has a 1080p camera.Final thoughts, after having these lights installed and active for over 2 weeks I think that I can honestly say, they do seem to decrease eye strain as I have had less headaches after late night movie watching. The screen seems bigger as the lights give the illusion that the action on the screen is flowing beyond it. It does add another dimension to gaming as in gaming mode the lighting changes as the gameplay changes creating a more immersive playing venue. While I will not take away anything from Philip Hue's bright and fast reactive system, $70 dollars is quite a bit of difference from Hue's costing $149 for the two light gameplay with hub base kit, and another $419 Philips Hue Play HDMI Sync Box. If you have the spare change laying around and you don't care about reactive lighting for your TVs built in smart apps, the Philips Hue is the better system.