Chrome Guitar Roller Saddle Tune-O-Matic Bridge Fit For Les Paul SG Dot Bigsby Guitar M8 Threaded Posts

​This bridge fits perfectly on my Epiphone Les Paul Traditional Pro. (Although after seeing it I realize that the Trad Pro does in fact have nickel hardware, which doesn't exactly match this chrome bridge. If I get too annoyed I'll just replace the tailpiece with a chrome version.) The bridge has BM003 on it, even though the product description shows it as BM005. No idea what the significance of that is. Who knows what brand this is, you can find both the "BM005" and "BM003" roller bridge listed on ebay and some other places (they look identical to me), I guess it's some sort of korean-made part? Originally I had planned to buy the "Allparts GB-0596-010 Chrome Roller Tunematic", since it had more reviews, and I'm not interested in going through the hassle of returning something (I'm ordering from Amazon for the convenience after all). But after seeing the exact dimensions listed here, I decided it was more important to me to be 100% confident that it would fit my guitar. It seems like the main difference between this and the Allparts version is the flathead screws on this bridge. Maybe phillips head would be easier to adjust, but it doesn't bother me much. The included posts match my existing posts/bushings, and the listed 14" radius/string spacing/etc. in the description matches my guitar specs. I'm not qualified to comment on the tuning stability or anything like that, I'll just say that this feels like a solid piece of metal. The individual saddles (rollers) move smoothly, and everything looks like it was machined pretty well. There were a couple of tight turns on some screws when adjusting intonation, but it's nothing that a drop of WD-40 won't fix. The screwdriver did leave slightly noticeable little chips? scratches? I'm not sure what to call them, maybe you can see in the pictures. But the same thing happened to me with the stock epiphone bridge, so I don't know. It's only an aesthetic thing, and really hard to see. Otherwise, I have zero complaints. If you're looking in this price range for bridges, I can't imagine you'd find much better than this. Quality-wise, I got exactly what I expected for $20 - a solid chunk of metal. I would buy it again.

The one that came with my Epiphone had three wide slots in the three lower saddles and three narrow slots in the upper three saddles. I have no idea why they'd sell a guitar without filling the slots to fit an actual set of strings. This forced the G string to sit higher than all the rest. Very annoying. This replacement solved all of the problems a had. I was even able to scoot the action down another mm. Made an "okay guitar" into a fantastic guitar. I also needed one if I ever decide to add a Bigsby. The measurement are metric. Some my complain about the lose fit of the studs due to sub-par quality control however, they've never though to use a little Teflon tape. I didn't need any but they were a bit lose. Not enough to matter. I didn't end up using the new studs and they didn't fit any better than the old ones. The only difference was the diameter of the thumb wheels The new ones were slightly smaller and thus revealed the edge of the insert below. I just used the stock ones. No big deal. Excellent quality, fast delivery and well worth the money if you have a Chinese guitar with a junk bridge.

If you have an Asian Epiphone or other Metric Les Paul or ES style guitar with a tune-o-matic this is a must have. This. A TP-6 tailpiece, and Some Gotoh Magnum locking tuners. Maybe some better pick ups. You have really sharpened the axe. It will stay in tune. You won't hear it ping... ever. And the price is outstanding considering the quality of the piece.

I bought this roller saddle and adapted it to be part of the floating bridge on my Godin 5th Avenue Arch Top guitar. The saddle is well made even though it has slotted intonation screws not Phillips. No springs to reset the position of the individual rollers. They use a small metal clip to hold the screws in place so you get full travel of the screw length. Just the right radius, 14 inches. Matches my neck radius and body arch perfectly. Threw away the mounting studs and mounted it on an ebony lower bridge. Stiff screws but a little, very little mineral oil free them right up. Fairly priced and works well with a variety of string gauges. Sounds great. Excellent tone transfer from the strings to the guitar. Very cool. Clean, smooth edges. Good weight. Just balances my whole guitar. Tone, weight, looks like it was made for it.

It's a decent bridge for the money. A definite improvement over any factory installed imported bridge. There were a few rough burs on the rollers. I fixed that with a metal file. Yes...as mentioned in other reviews, the adjustment screws are a little tight. That is a simple fix. Simple loosen all the screws. Spray the screws and rollers with a good quality penetrating oil. You can use WD-40 if that's all you have. Put it on your guitar. String it up. Set the intonation. Once you've done that, you'll feel like you're playing a different guitar. *** NOTE - Tip - Advise *** When you change the bridge, MAKE SURE you change the nut. I prefer to use Graph Tech Tusq. I install them on ALL of my guitars. If you don't want to pay $13 for a Superior nut, then search Amazon for others. Stay away from plastic nuts. The nut is one of the MOST important parts of any guitar. It improves intonation and play ability. OVERALL: I am satisfied with this roller bridge and yes, I would recommend it to anyone.

haven't had an issue with the product. Easy installation and no tunning problems.

I bought two of these. One functioned well enough. Screws are a bit clunky but they work. Although it severely muffled the ‘G’ string. The other wouldn’t adjust. Screws were stuck in place. Probably used a bit too much force to try to loosen them...end result was the screw head broke off. Tried to remove what was left of the screw so that I could simply install a new screw but it’s stuck in there real good. Return window has elapsed so I’m stuck with them. One works for 5 strings and a muffled string. The other is broken. Should have installed them right away so as not to miss the return window.

Roller bridge review - 03/19/19 This roller bridge is intended as a non-US made guitar Tune-O-matic bridge replacement. Before ordering this bridge, carefully and accurately measure your existing bridge stud spacing, and stud dimensions. Don’t complain if it does not fit, when you get it. This should go without saying, but... Just measure, and measure again. Pros: A fair quality Roller Bridge (once potential issues are corrected/repaired) Rollers spin freely Price Neutral: Adjustment posts to body bushing tolerance is a bit loose, but fully functional. Cons: As delivered the G/B/e saddles were stuck and would not easily compensate. (a manufacturing issue of a few thousandths tolerance) As with other reviews of this product, there is potential for any number of the adjustable saddles to be stuck and not easily moved to adjust intonation. This may, or may not be an issue with a bridge you would receive. My particular bridge had 3 stuck saddles, the G/B/e were all so tight they would not be adjustable on a guitar. I carefully worked to remove the 3 saddles by removing the retaining clip (warning: do not lose the retaining clips). Then un-thread the adjustment screws to free the individual saddles. They may be VERY tight, take your time. If the saddles are tight, DO NOT attempt to adjust the saddles toward the head of the adjustment screw, but rather away from the head of the screw, remove the retaining clips and then finish threading the adjustment screw out of the saddle. Once the adjustment screws and saddles were removed it was clear that the alignment end of the adjustment screw was binding in the bridge housing. The shoulders of each saddle ride on a cast surface of the bridge, the adjustment screw is “centered” in front and behind the saddle and threads through the middle of the saddle. If the center bore of the screw, Saddle and screw holes in the bridge don’t all align properly, it will bind. That is the case here. Some reviewers have broken the adjustment screw, and I would guess that they did not remove the retaining clip and used great force in attempting to move the saddle. It may also be that they attempted to adjust the saddle toward the head of the adjustment screw. If the saddle are "stuck", just don't try to adjust them toward the head of the screw. I was able to ever so slightly enlarge the “pin” alignment hole in the bridge (the smaller hole the adjustment screws go through), this allowed everything to work smoothly once reassembled. The amount needed to enlarge, or open up this little hole was minimal, a guess would be a few thousandths, a very small amount. All saddles are the same size, so reinstalling them is not “string” specific, any saddle can go in any position. The rollers are not string specific either, they all have the same groove in each roller. No need to worry about which saddle goes in which string location, just put it back together. Now all bridge saddles work smoothly. It took me about an hour to diagnose, disassemble, make adjustments and reassemble the bridge. My time is worth more than the bridge cost initially, so now the bridge is overpriced. Oh well, now it works!