Packard C140A 1 Pole 40 Amp Contactor 24 Volt Coil Contactor

Got this installed about a week ago. I hesitated because the old one was working in a stuck-on condition, and didn't want to be without A/C while it was so hot, as I could just control the A/C at the thermostat. Looked slightly different (cover over relay) from previous one. But after doing a wire for wire replacement (noting the terminal markings), it worked fine. Air conditioner is again controlled by thermostat as it should be. I will update if anything changes any time soon. Ordered on August 1 and it arrived on August 2, from seller, HVAC Pros! Not bad at all! Thanks guys. [Review page asked my to rate "Sheerness". WHAT??? I gave 5 stars to "Overall rating", "Easy to install", and "Value for money", but left it blank for "Sheerness". Might as well ask me to rate "Sweetness"... ]

I bought this contactor to replace the one in my A/C unit. The old one was chattering so bad that the condenser fan motor would not start. The compressor was also burned out which more than likely was due to arcing from the old contactor. I replaced the old contactor rated for 30A with this 40A unit. The old ones insulating material is slightly thicker and it felt a bit heavier but this one is perfectly fine for what it is designed to do. I like the aluminum blocks used for connecting L1 and L2. The old one only had screws with square washers. The coil is covered on this contactor which it was not on the old one. It doesn't really make much of a difference but it is a nice touch. I can use a double pole contactor on my A/C unit but do not need to so I chose to go with this single pole contactor (one less contact to pit and arc). This is the cheapest I could find it anywhere, I bought 2 and plan to replace it every 5 to 7 years to keep it from damaging my compressor and condenser motors. I will probably order a couple more.

My 12 year old York heat pump unit was having some issues and had to replace this contactor. It was a perfect replacement and worked well for last 4 years without any problem at all. I will buy another one if I have to replace it again, but it has been working nicely. The best way to replace it is to ensure the 240 V power is turned off first at the disconnect box and take a picture of wiring. Then remove the old one and replace it with this unit. Ensure all wiring connectors are wired correctly. Even with removal of cover, the entire job took less than 30 minutes.

I used this as a replacement for a contact on my air conditioning condensing unit and it worked well. The only thing different about this one and the one that I replaced is, the one I replaced has a button that you can push to test the contactor function. When the 24 volts is applied to the contactor, the button engages and you can tell that the contactor is supposed to be working. This contactor does not have that function. I am an extreme novice, so it is probably something that I should have recognized in the product description. Otherwise, it was exactly what I was expecting and it fit in the same spot, with the same screw holes as the original unit.

I had had an AC repairman come out once, to fix the Central Air after I noticed the lines had frozen up and the fan was running constantly. He did some poking and prodding, worked some magic, and $150 later I had my AC back and had signed up for a yearly maintenance plan. Fast forward a year, to the end of the last cleaning/check in my new service contract. I needed to cancel, since my fiance and I had both been recently laid off. A week later, I woke up in the morning to frozen pipes and a hot, running fan! Since we were working to save money, we decided to just pull the main fuse and leave the unit disabled. It was fall, and while it's warm in MS, it's not THAT warm, and we could do without the AC. Thankfully, we had a mild winter, and didn't need to run the heat at all! This past summer, when we went to start the AC unit up again, we had hoped the problem would resolve itself. Not so much! Within just a few minutes, we once again had frozen pipes. UGH! Some research using my Google-Fu led me to understand that this problem was usually caused by a bad contactor. When I read that, the word contactor clicked for me - I remember the repairman talking about it, and saying it would only cost $50 or $75 if I signed up for their annual maintenance plan!!! Some more reviews and quick checks outside led me to finding the right one, right here, on Amazon. They were so cheap, I ordered TWO. Replacing it was a breeze - my fiance did all the wire work, but it was really just a matter of keeping everything in place, and tightening connectors. We used my phone to take pictures prior to removing the old contactor, to ensure the new one went back in correctly. Once it was in, and the main fuse was returned to its outlet, the AC unit started chugging along just fine! We still have the second contactor, sitting on a shelf, ready to go when the current one decides it just can't take it anymore. And when that one goes into the unit, I'll gladly return here to Amazon to buy two MORE. And if we happen to move before we use them all, I'll gladly leave them with the new homeowner, with instructions on how to save hundreds of dollars by doing research and trusting yourself!

This Packard C140A single-pole contactor coil is a 100% compatible aftermarket replacement for the original-spec coil contactor with the Lennox 10ACC AC compressor. It's likely compatible with other makes and models as well. Do your homework. An AC compressor contactor coil is an electromechanical component that wears over the years. Should it fail, the result is, well, not good and hurty expensive. Therefore, it is prudent to replace these things prophylactically every seven years or so. The task of swapping an AC contactor is completely within the scope of the DIY'er. A slackjaw redneck AC guy will quote hundreds of dollars to perform the fifteen minute swap of this $10 part. A bazillion videos exist that illustrate the process of doing the job correctly and safely. Save your money and do the chore yourself.

So far, so good. I ordered this as a replacement for a Siemens FLA 25 contactor with a failed coil because of its low cost and higher current rating. I had reservations, thinking the existing 120v power feed wires might be too small for the screw terminals on this unit, but there seems to be a good contact area and are mechanically secure. I'll keep an eye on them anyways. The bladed terminals for the other wire connections appear to be brass; on the Siemens unit they were silver plated, but the plating was coming off of some of the blades and and rust was starting to develop. The coil/core is enclosed on the new unit but was not on the Siemens; a couple of bugs (literally) were within the travel spaces of the contactor core in the Siemens unit and may have contributed to the coil failure. Beware of replacing a shunted contactor with a two pole unit. I have a heat pump. During cold weather the shunt provides continuous power to a defrost control unit when required, to facilitate heat pump operation when heat is called for. Otherwise, this unit seems as solid as the old one and is presently operating well. I can't assess the quality of the main contacts - hopefully they are at least as good as the original unit; it lasted 10 years. Hopefully the new one does at least half as well. A bargain if it doesn't fail in short order.

As part of our repair of a 15-year old Ducane air conditioner, we needed to replace the existing single-pole contactor. The mounting plate on this new unit had screw holes in exactly the same place as the original one. One new feature is the small rectangular cover plate that keeps out bugs and debris that could interfere with the solenoid contact. The original was open. It is a pretty standard component and less expensive than we thought would be the case.

Worked in our air conditioner perfectly. No longer do we have to run into the basement every time we want the fan off, and nor did we have to spend $300 for a visit from a professional. Very awesome. Thanks!

Good price

Used it to replace an old-school (early 90's) single-pole contactor. Tips: - Take a picture before you start! - Contactor inputs (line 1, line 2) and outputs are labelled on the contactor. - If you have an old school contactor, you'll notice this one has less output pins. That should be okay. Usually, the extra pins you have on the old-school ones can be moved on the output side of this contactor (e.g., in my case, it was going to the startup capacitor) - You can use a two-pole contactor in place of a single-pole one. There are good videos out there explaining why.