Glorious Custom Gaming Keyboard - GMMK 85% Percent TKL Barebone - USB C Wired Mechanical Keyboard Kit - RGB Hot Swappable Switches & Keycaps - Black Metal Top Plate

First off, it's a floating key design. This means there is no bezel around the switches. That look was popular with gaming keyboards a few years ago. Custom keyboard enthusiasts generally frown upon it now. That out of the way, at 55 dollars this board is a good buy. It feels solid. The weight is from 3 cheap metal blocks stuck in the case, not from thick, high-density structural materials like some high-end boards But the weights don't move around, and are only visible with the case open. My board is modified. I replaced the included foam with thicker neoprene foam. I left the stabilizers stock, as they seemed to be adequately lubed. If you're doing your first build, they might not bother you. They're better than those on cheap, standard/gaming keyboards. But if you're looking for good sound, you might want to consider modifying or replacing the stabilizers. With Kailh Pro Purple switches, the look, sound, and feel of this board is something I'm proud of. I've gotten compliments on it several times. I you're looking to build your first budget mechanical keyboard and don't want to go with a more enthusiast entry level board, I say go for it. This is a great platform to start with. If I couldn't build another board and had to use this one indefinitely, I think I'd be quite happy with it. But building custom keyboards is addictive. I've already ordered some higher-end entry-level boards to explore the hobby further. I'm going for more thock next time.

This is my first jump into custom mech keyboards and all my criticisms are nit picky garbage that doesn’t at all change the fact that I highly recommend this board. First note: the included keycap pry tool is a bit finicky to get out of the chassis and the experience of trying to pry it out makes me nervous I might scratch or damage the case. Second note: documentation doesn’t say anything about the win lock key’s existence and there aren’t labels for the two LED’s that sit above the arrow keys (caps lock and win lock respectively). Only other criticism: I sometimes wish the feet on the bottom of the board propped it up a bit higher. Now for the good stuff: the case feels well built, sounds nice, the stabs are a huge upgrade over the stock crap I was using before, the RGB looks great and is very flexible, the software is highly customizable and has great macro support, absolutely zero noticeable input delay or rollover issues, and even the included cable is pretty sweet. Honestly really enjoy using this board, I don’t see myself upgrading past it any time soon. Again, all my criticisms are basically non-issues in day to day use, and this is overall a 5 star product. These minor criticisms are really more there for the manufacturers’ benefit than users because all of these issues are pretty easy fixes if they were to make another edition of the board and this is just my two cents. To someone looking at getting into custom mech keyboards, this is one of the best options out there and I stress again that after messing with this board for a while I absolutely do not see myself needing to upgrade any time soon.

To say this is the best barebones keyboard for the price out there would be an understatement. Arrived with two keycaps, switch puller and keycap removal puller. Along with a 4-6 feet cable, not sure exactly. The cable is braided very nice, long, and durable. Now let’s talk about the actual keyboard itself. It has a awesome durable frame, good elevation clips to put it on a angle, and it’s super beautiful. No big logos anywhere, and has a silver outlining. The stabilizers are awesome, insane. They all come Pre-Lubed which is outstanding for this price, and they are nice stabilizers in general. Although the left shift stabilizer popped, which basically it’s like the sound of it stock. It doesn’t effect it working wise. It will though change the sound of it so it sounds like a regular old stabilizer. That’s OK, as long as you have a good switch to pair it with. I used Gateron Yellows lubed, and they sound just immaculate. They were super easy to pop in, but one of them if you misplace the switch, the one or two pins bend which isn’t good. You can try bending them back, but it could be hard depending on how bent it got. I do think the RGB could use a tiny, tiny bit of help. Don’t get me wrong, the software is awesome. But not that. When you turn it on with no switches, it’s super bright, not with switches. I used Gateron Yellows lubed and Gateron switches have the standard opening for the RGB, but it still doesn’t shine through with colored HK gaming Gateron Lubed Yellows. I highly recommend getting the GMMK switch test pack along with this, so you can hear them in the board itself and choosing which one you like, you can’t find Gateron yellows in the Test Pack, but you can find switches like, Kailh Coppers, Kailh Box Brown, Kailh White Box, Kailh Red box, Gateron Blue, Gateron Green, and a few more. The pack also comes with O-rings as well. I honestly believe the Drop Barebones Keyboards are good, but not for the hefty price, (Around 170-200$) so I really think, this is a great option for people that wanna build but don’t wanna solder and program. Thank you for your time.

Great barebone keyboard (Combined with kailh box pink) Feel solid the only down side i found (Can easily be fixed at home) is the stabilizers they rattle a bit but it can be easily fixed with a little bit of masking tape on the clipping side other than that really great keyboard.

What can I say? It's a hunk of PBC, Metal & Plastic. It's fine! A little plasticky but y'know. It's great for a first keyboard build. I'm happy that it came with pre lubed stabs, as most people don't have the time nor money to lube them, but... The lubing really does vary from stabilizer to stabilizer. I was unhappy with lubing and cleaned it off, then bought new stabs and used kyrtox 205g0.

個人的にはタイトルの通り、「キーアサインの変更設定が本体内に保存出来る」のが最大のポイント。 以前にPulsarのTKLも購入したのですが、TLK版は専用アプリを起動している間だけキーアサイン変更が有効という事でがっかりしてたところ、本製品を発見。 こちらはキーボード本体内のメモリに設定を保存し、どの環境でもその設定で利用出来たので、一安心です。 惜しむらくは、ソケットが3ピンのため利用可能な軸に制限があるところでしょうか。 GMMK v2は5ピン対応らしいので、そちらが入手出来るようになったら試してみたいですね。

w key doesn't work

This is the first custom keyboard I have ever built. I could have gone further and purchased the parts to build the base, but I don't see the point to that unless you want a better controller board or something. I make my living repairing and soldering and it seemed like a lot of extra work for nothing. I looked through all the bases available on Amazon. I actually was interested in the version with the large volume knob on the top right corner but they didn't have anything like that in tenkeyless (TKL). First thing is to plan what keycap set you want to use and make sure both the keyboard and keyset are compatible. I ordered two keysets, a really cheap one and a medium quality one. The medium quality set arrived and I found I had ordered the wrong set. This is an ANSI layout TKL base, so you need to make sure the keyset you order is the same. I sent that set back and the cheap one arrived just in time. I ordered another higher quality set for install once they come in. You need lube for the switches depending on the type (not needed for Cherry Blue or other clicky switches since there is a danger of altering the the click. You will need gaskets if you want the switches to be as quiet as possible. Each switch needs to be taken apart (you will need a switch disassembly tool), lubed if required, the gasket added and then reassembled. It would take about 5 minutes per switch including lubing. It took me about a minute per switch since I was just adding the gasket. I purchased a small kit with lube, switch openers and small brushes for applying the lube. The openers work great. Place the switch in the opener and push down and the switch pops open. In one of the pictures you can see everything extra I bought for the assembly. CW from top left, lube kit, rubber o'rings, Cherry Blue switches, Cheapo keycap set, box of gaskets. Skip the lube if you're not using clicky switches. The rubber o'rings go on the stems of the keycaps before installing them. The switches just push into the keyboard. Remember to get clear switches if you have an RGB base. Also remember you need doubleshot keycaps made for RGB (I don't like the "pudding" keycaps. They look garish to me.) I only had one small issue, with the escape key. I couldn't get the switch to push down into position, and I had to try several switches over and over, and use quite a bit of force to get that one switch into place, but now it works fine. Not sure what the problem was. In every other position the switches just clicked into place. Note, there are ZERO instructions. They don't even put their website on the box anywhere and I had to do a google search to find them so I could download the software. The software, from a usability standpoint, is excellent. Very simple and intuitive. RGB per key works fine and they also have about 12 or so patterns to choose from. Just a note, it take a while to update when you make some changes. One time I thought it had crashed and it did lock up, but after a minute it started working again. One time when playing around with the software the keyboard RGB locked up and I had to unplug it and plug it back in again to get it back to a working state. Over all pretty minor problems. I am sure if I was patient and waited for the changes to apply there would have been no issue. The base itself is heavy, has great rubber feet, and they give you some spares as well. I can easily recommend this base. Just a note. Almost everything I bought came with a key puller. I have about ten of the things now. Even the keyboard has a recess on the bottom that contains...you guessed it, a key puller. What a waste. I already had several from previous keyboards. They are all going in the garbage now.