Bowery Hill 5-Shelf Bookshelf Cherries

Great, sturdy, beautiful. I'm planning on replacing the other 2 old Ikea bookshelves with this model (I know, I know, but Krevbäck bookshelves where the most amazing bookshelves Ikea ever made, they even lasted 8 moving sessions. Of course they discontinued them!). If you are hesitating buying those, here's what's up with them: Yeah, they might have minor scratches, it happens, mine had none I easily noticed. Read the .... manual. It says not to tighten the screws too much for the upper part, because if you do, you will go through the wood and it doesn't look great (It's still not that noticeable, I got lucky). It's very heavy. Unless you're strong (you can always move it sideways and wiggle it like I did), get someone to help put in into position once you're done assembling it. It offers way more space than I originally thought it would. My Krevbäck a pretty wide, these aren't much wider, yet I could fit way more books per shelves. Amazing! It's better quality than most you'll see in stores and cheaper.

El mueble es bueno…. Su armado requiere habilidades y ayuda. Trajo dos detalles en las molduras seguramente provocadas por el mal manejo del paquete

took several weeks to come . it was very carefully packaged lot's of Styrofoam protection, but lot's of little bits sticking to everything. I opened on the porch and cleaned each piece with my vacuum. Instructions are clear and easy to follow. I like to think I'm handy and I do follow Instructions carefully. it took me around 4 hours I think. I did have few coffee ☕ so hard to say. it is heavy and very sturdy. I'm very impressed with the build and look. She has lots of hand bags and shoes in the closet so I'm thinking a second unit will be handy for them

Luce muy bien, solo no se fija mucho.

I bought and assembled three of these shelf units. In my home office, they are very useful and look really nice. I got the cherry finish, and it is just gorgeous, prettiest furniture finish I ever saw. From 15 feet away, one of the shelf units looks nice enough for nearly any office or living room. But since the unit is designed to be assembled by the customer, up close it does not look quite as nice as high quality traditional furniture making. While the unit seems designed well enough for its intend purpose and usage, due to the particle board, the unit does not look as rugged as, say, some units I have in solid oak from about 100 years ago. There is an instruction book that documents how to assemble the unit in 14 steps. The 'technical writing' is very good. Along with the particle board pieces, there are some small pieces, nearly all metal. All these small pieces come in a plastic bag. Suggestion: Get 12 little bowls and sort each piece type into its own bowl. Some of the details of how the shelves are assembled are innovative. Mostly the shelves are held together with some 'pins' and 'cams'. For joining two pieces of the particle board, say, X and Y, piece X has a hole for a pin and piece Y has a correspoding hole for the other end of the same pin and, at the end of that hole, a hole in the surface for a cam. Then when pieces X and Y are joined, one end of the pin will be in the hole in piece X and the other end in the hole and cam of piece Y. The pin is a little complicated: The end that goes into the cam has a grove that fits into the side of the cam and gets pulled on as the cam is turned. The other end has some tough, black plastic. When the cam is turned, the pin tries to slide out of the black plastic, and the black plastic expands and makes the pin tight in the hole in piece X. Suggestion: Put the pin in the hole in piece X and then move piece Y to slide its hole over its end of the pin. If the pin is in piece Y first, then as move pieces X and Y into position and get the pin in its hole in piece X, the plastic can be damaged and have its end of the pin no longer fit in the hole in piece X. When this happened to me, I just used a knife to trim a little of the black plastic. But, still, I suggest, put the pin in the hole in piece X first, making the black plastic safe, and then move piece Y in position. The end of the pin with the plastic is delicate; the other end is not. Mostly the unit is to be assembled on a floor, on its back. You may want some good knee pads -- not a joke. Okay, there is a risk of damaging the unit and, thus, have to be careful. In detail, there are 6 shelves, three are adjustable. For the other three, there is the top, the bottom, and one between those two. The top and the bottom have decorative pieces. Then to attach the back, flip the unit on its front and have the back up. The two decorative pieces will then be in contact with the floor, and due to these decorative pieces, the 'between' shelf will NOT be in contact with the floor and will be about 2 inches from the floor. THEN: Do NOT lean on the shelf unit!! If lean very hard, say, using the unit to help stand, can have a pin be pulled out of its hole bringing much of particle board surface of its hole along with it. Solution: Get two thick books, say, 1000 pages each, and put one at each end of the 'between' shelf and between that shelf and the floor. Then can lean on the unit without damaging it. The back is thin, made of two pieces, and get attached with 3/4 inch long nails. Budget the use of the nails or might run out. I wanted more nails. The nails that come with the unit are good, and would have to look carefully to find extras just as good. In attaching the back pieces, should get their position accurate within about 1/16 of an inch everywhere. With less accuracy, might have some of the back extend beyond the unit. Also each of the nails has to go into the edge of a piece of particle board, hopefully into the center of that edge. Else the nail can protrud from and damage the surface of the board. Also want each nail not too close to the edge of the back. Such alignment needs the 1/16" accuracy. One piece of the back, the 'upper' piece, covers from the 'between' board to the top board. This piece attaches first. The other piece, the 'lower' piece, covers from the 'between' board to the bottom board and overlaps the upper piece where the upper piece already covers the edge of the 'between' board. Then, of course, the part of the unit where the upper piece attaches may slightly fail to be a rectangle. So, get the upper piece very carefully positioned so that its lower edge just covers the edge of the 'between' board and nail the piece to the 'between' board. Then 'skew' the upper part of the unit so that it is accurately a rectangle, put a nail in each of the two upper corners of the upper piece to hold the alignment achieved, and then put in the rest of the nails in the upper piece. That is, to get the upper piece attached within 1/16", expect to have to use some 'skew'. Similarly for the lower piece. There is a chance that, at the edge of the 'between' board, a nail for the lower piece could hit a nail for the upper piece. So, after nailing the upper piece to the edge of the 'between' board, for each of those nails mark on the upper piece a little above the 'between' board where the nail is so that when nailing the lower piece can avoid each nail already in the upper piece. When nailing the lower piece to the upper piece and into the edge of the 'between' board, for each nail need some way to know where to start the nail to have it enter the center of the edge of the 'between' board. At the ends of the 'between' board, it is easy to locate nails correctly. So put a nail at each end and have a loop of kite string from one of the nails to the other and then to a hanging weight to make the string tight and straight. Then put the rest of the nails in the bottom piece between the two pieces of string. Or use a chalk line or draw a line using a yard stick as a straight edge. The 'between' board gets a piece of edge trim. It is to be attached with right angle brackets. Each bracket gets two small screws. The instructions say that this piece of edge trim should be attached when the unit is on its back on the floor. With the unit in this position, the little screws are very awkward to install, would be easier for someone the size of a kitten. An easy solution is to lift the unit to the vertical with the top down. Then the screws are easy to install. There are several screws. They all need a #2 Phillips head screwdriver. For installing the nails, finally I decided to use two extra tools, a pair of needle nose pliers and a strong flashlight. Then for each nail, hold it just under its head in the tip of the pliers. Use the flashlight to remove all shadows from the desired location of the nail. Then position the tip of the nail carefully, make the nail vertical, give a tap or two with the hammer, move the pliers out of the way, and finish driving in the nail. The unit comes with a little plastic gauge for such positioning, but when I squeezed a nail, it would jump out of the plastic and land a foot or two away.