Beck/Arnley Stop Light Switch - 201-1105

good quality, not exactly OEM but brake light stays off and works.

This is the one that looked the closest and I was able to weatherproof it with some hot glue and shrink wrap tubing. So far it works great, hopefully it will last all winter. For this application I needed 18mm shrink tube, hot glue, a 10x1.25mm nut, two fender washers, and some connectors to adapt it to the tractor plug.

Looks to be well made a little stiff on the spring but will do wish it came with two nuts but is good value. For anyone looking for an additional nut the size is m10-1.25

This is a perfect drop in replacement for what I would assume are any number of brake light switches. In my case I used it on a Chinese import electric golf cart. I simply visually compared the switch I had to the product photos. Here are some things to know:1. The switch only comes with ONE mounting nut. Typically two are needed to secure the switch in the right position so that the brake pedal mechanism pushes on the plunger just as it hits the mechanical stop. This avoids the switch body being crushed if someone puts a foot behind the brake pedal and yanks it upwards. The nut you need is M10-1.25. This isn't an uncommon part, but may not be available everywhere since it's metric. I got one at the big-orange-store-which-shall-rename-nameless, but I would expect any auto parts store to have them.2. As said the nut is an M10, which means the hole diameter to mount this switch in would be roughly 10mm, or maybe about a size X drill.2. This is a NORMALLY CLOSED switch. In other words, the circuit is closed when the plunger is released. In most vehicles, pushing on the brake pedal moves a flange away from the switch, releasing the plunger. But just so everyone knows, pushing in on the switch's plunger will OPEN the circuit, or BREAK the connection.3. The switch has two wires. The body of the switch is not grounded. It can therefore be used to switch the positive or negative side of a circuit.4. The switch has two pigtails attached to it, which terminate in 1/4" FASTON terminals. I thought I was being all boss by using shrouded terminals, but found that the terminals on this switch have little "wings" that stick out, exposing the contact to where it might touch the chassis of the vehicle, causing a short. I solved this problem with a couple bits of heat shrink. If you're a savage, I suppose electrical tape will work too... *sigh*

awesome

Used this ass a replacement for a failed switch on my tractor. Worked just as the original at a much reduced price,

The item is not 55. Won't screw into hole, too small, needs two jam nuts. Only comes with one

GOOD AS IT GETS