WCI-100 Wall Command Universal Ceiling Fan Control, Three Speeds and Full Range Dimmer,Black,10.20x8.00x3.50

At the top of my stairway to my second floor I had a plain light fixture that was served by 3-way switches (one at the bottom of the stairs, one at the top of the stairs, and one just outside the Master Bedroom). I decided to replace the light fixture with a fan/light combination to improve air circulation between floors. I didn't want to have to control both fan and light with these 3 way switches so I decided to see if these would work...and they do!! It was a bummer to need to order 3 complete kits because I needed 3 transmitters but 1 receiver, but the experiment worked and I have extra receivers. What's nice about these kits is that the receiver doesn't have DIP switches on them- you set the transmitter(s) to whatever code you choose (make sure you set them all to the same code). It's also cool that you don't need to tap into the white wire in the switch box, just connect the transmitter to each of the black wires in the box, doesn't matter which is which, and connect the ground wire to ground of the switch box. First I switched off the circuit breaker powering that circuit. Next I removed all of the existing wall switches and then disconnected the red wire from each and insulated them with the wire nuts (these are no longer needed and will not have power to them so just make sure they can't short out other wires in the wall). Next I installed the receiver inside the ceiling fan base- black from ceiling to black incoming, white in ceiling to white incoming, then to the fan black-black, white-white, & blue-blue...pretty simple. Next I connected one of the transmitters to each black wire in the switch box: black-black & black-black, green-bare copper in the switch box. This next step required me to move quickly to complete- I turned the circuit breaker on, then I needed to run upstairs to the transmitter and hold the Fan Off button on the transmitter for 3 seconds. The lamp turned on and flashed twice, which meant the receiver successfully paired to the transmitter. I was able to control the light on'off and fan speed with the transmitter now. Since the other 2 transmitters were set to the same code all I needed to do was flip off the circuit breaker and wire up the 2 remaining transmitters the same way as the first- no extra programming step was involved. Once I returned power to that circuit I was able to control both light and fan from the 3 locations! I'm very happy with the result!

My fan/light came with an in box switch that looked a lot like this one BUT it was for a hardwire situation. No matter what combination used to hook it up, nothing was working right. Unless your switch & box were specifically hardwired for a combination fan/light, there's no way a hardwire switch can work. The solution is such a transmitter and receiver that has wires matching what's coming out of your fan/light, specifically the blue wire that controls the light separately. If you have a switch box and opening with a typical hot/neutral/ground 3 wire connection and you're trying to hook up a fan/light with those same 3 wires + a blue wire for the light, this IS a great solution. It was easy to hook up and thankfully worked perfectly, including dimming the led light. Also, it works without the need for an internal battery which would obviously need to be replaced at some point. One thing I'd do differently with the installation is to set the dip switches to something other than the default because it is trying to control a fan in an adjacent room - if this proves to be an ongoing problem, I will need to make a dip switch adjustment on one of them so they don't compete for control. Bottomline: Great solution to a BIG problem I was struggling to solve...

This wall switch replacement for the cheap remote controls that the ceiling fan manufacturers supply works like a CHAMP. It completely removes the battery element from the equation, so your connectivity never drops to your fan and you can control all functions from the wall (fan speed, dimmable lighting). My only complaint about the unit is that the remote that installs in the fan mount is just *slightly* bigger than the remote unit that was in my fan. I had to take down the entire fan and modify the "ball" support from the fan stem to shorten it, to provide room for the new remote unit to slide in. Once I did that, the remote unit fit and the thing works great.

I had one of the older wall units (model UC-9050) that looks just like this one but was made by Harbor Breeze. It worked flawlessly for the past 17 years but the off button had to be pressed really hard to turn off the fan from the wall unit. So I sought to replace it with like for like but there were a number of reviews out there made it difficult to determine if would still work due to the learning function of the receiver. Bottom line, just set the first 4 dip switches to match and the fifth dip to off or 'X'. Unfortunately, the instructions and the manufactures specs don't let you know if it's backwards compatible which is unfortunately as I've seen a number of reviews stating they returned it. That said, there was a review posted on her by Jason Allen on in March of 2014 that really help explain the whole deal. I'm re-posting his review in the hopes it helps others who don't go through all 100+ reviews to find it. You can also find his review in the Q&A if you search for 'frequency'. Here it is again: ByJason Allenon March 28, 2014 This is in respsonse to some people that said it didn't work with an old receiver: I currently have three Hampton Bay fans and one Harbor breeze fan. One Hampton Bay fan is on a 20 ft vaulted ceiling and came with a remote control. Over the years the Hampton Bay remote light button was wearing out but was still working. The Harbor Breeze fan came with a remote kit (receiver and remote) that I didn't install. I saved it thinking I could put it in the master bedroom Hampton Bay fan. Well, I never got around to installing the new remote kit so instead I thought why wouldn't this new remote replace the old Hampton Bay remote. I opened up both remotes' battery compartments and set the new remote's dip switches the same way as the Hampton's and the new remote worked. Then some months later while walking down the ceiling fan aisle at Walmart, I saw a "universal" remote kit. The kit's remote looked exactly like the Harbor Breeze remote except it didn't have any branding logos on it. On a hunch that it was exactly the same remote I bought it. Comparing the "universal" remote and the Harbor remote I found that they had the same FCC ID, which is KUJCE9103; that meant that they were the same frequency. Looking at the old Hampton Bay remote revealed that it was L3HMAY97FANHD. Also looking at a new Harbor breeze in-wall transmitter I installed most recently was CHQ9051T. Summary of different remotes I have used: 1. Hampton Bay Remote (1997) FCC ID: L3HMAY97FANHD, 303.95 MHz Four dip switches 2. Harbor Breeze remote (2002) FCC ID: KUJCE9103, 304 MHz Four dip switches 3. Generic Remote (2002) FCC ID: KUJCE9103, 304 MHz Four dip switches 4. Harbor Breeze in-wall remote (2008) FCC ID: CHQ9051T, 303.875 MHz Five dip switches I've gotten all of these "different" remotes to operate the fans without changing out the receivers in the fans. The receivers must have a wide enough tolerance or bandwidth to accept the slight frequency differences from the transmitters. I'm guessing it is 0.200 MHz and could go up as much a 1Mhz. I've gotten a 304 MHz remote to work with a 303.95 MHz receiver and a 303.875 MHz remote to work with a 304 MHz receiver. The only issue with a remote that is on the edge of the bandwidth would be decreased range; so if the remote was designed to work at 40ft, it might only work at 20ft. Steps for finding a replacement remote: 1. If you have a different remote (different FCC ID) go to google and do a search for "FCC ID lookup" and go to the FCC website to do a lookup. The first three characters of the ID are the grantee code and the rest of the ID is the product code. The main point of this step is find out the frequency. 2. Once you have the frequency compare it other remotes available. If you find one that is within plus or minus 0.2 MHz it will probably work. 3. There's one more very important thing to check on you old remote. Find out how many dip switches it has. 4. Places to buy the remote: Walmart, Lowes, Amazon, Ebay Another thing I've seen on other DIY or handyman websites is that they say changing the dip switches will change the frequency. That is not what it is doing. Changing the dip switches changes the address lines of the HT-12E RF encoder. Multiple remotes of the same model in your house all operate on the same frequency but it is the unique encoding set by the address bits of each transmitter/receiver pair that pairs them up to control only one fan. A button push on one remote will be received by all the fans but will be ignored by the fans that are not paired up. The latest models of remote are "Learning" or "Smart". One, I read about was Honeywell Smart Sync in-wall remote (2011) FCC ID：KUJCE10005, 304 MHz No dip switches. The FCC's website shows that it operates at 304Mhz. That matches up with Harbor Breezes remotes. Unfortunately Honeywell and others are moving toward a Smart Sync or Learning process. That process removes flexibility from the home owner and forces you to replace the fan receiver if the receiver is not Learning. If the Honeywell remote had the traditional/older style dip switches you match up the Honeywell remote with your older Harbor Breeze receiver by matching the dip switch setting. If the Honeywell remote has the HT12E encoder, you could open up the remote and find the address lines on the HT12E and set them high, connect to Vcc, or low, connect them to GND, to match the dip switches. That's all the dip switches do is set the address lines on the encoder. The receivers get matched up when their address lines are the same. I was able to install a Harbor Breeze in-wall remote that had similar Learning instructions but the learning was all at the receiver side and the remote had dip switches making it backwards compatible with older receivers. FAQ: Q: Is a five dip switch transmitter compatible with an already installed four dip switch receiver? A: It depends. Follow the steps above to verify frequency. If the frequency looks good then on the five dip switch transmitter set the fifth switch to "off "or "low". In my case the fifth dip switch was labelled "D" (on) and "X" (off). I set mine to "X". Ignore whatever the instruction says about it being used to turn on dimming for incandescent/florescent lights. Q: Can a transmitter/receiver pair that's labelled learning or has instructions claiming "learning mode" work with already installed receiver? A: It depends. Follow the steps above to verify frequency. If the frequency looks good then check to see if the transmitter has dip switches. In my case, my transmitter had dip switches and the learning was all in the new receiver. I didn't use the new receiver and was able to use the already installed receiver by matching up the dip switches. Q: Can two or more remotes be used to control one fan? A: Yes! That's what is nice about having remotes and in-wall remotes that have dip switches. Just set the dip switches on all the remotes (hand-held or in-wall) to match fan receiver. I am successfully using an in-wall remote near the door that is installed in a switch gang box and a hand-held remote on the night stand to control one fan in the master bedroom. If you have "learning" or "smart-sync" transmitter/receiver setup it might not work.

I bought this wall control for an Emerson ceiling fan which is (12) years old. The old wall control was an Emerson control and it was working, but only controlled 2 speeds on my 3 speed ceiling fan. I contracted Emerson and they no longer sell a wall control for a (3) speed fan with a light dimmer. I searched online and found this Litex wall control which looked exactly like the old Emerson control. I purchased the Litex control and installed the receiver and wall control in about 30 minutes. It works great and the price was reasonable. 01-08-19-Just replaced another Emerson wall control which stopped working and only controlled two of the three fan speeds. The Litex control and receiver worked perfectly and now my Emerson Apollo fan works correctly. Since I was already familiar with the installation from my last install, this repair only took about (10) minutes. Overall, the Litex controller seems to be a much better controller than the Emerson. The buttons are much firmer and the fan speeds and light responds a lot faster than the old Emerson controller.

THIS DID NOT WORK AT ALL! THIS IS MY THRID INSTALL. THIS UNIT MUST HAVE BEEN BAD!! NOW I'M PAST MY RETURN WINDOW! WHY IS THIS ALLOWED TO BE SOLD ON HERE? THEY ARE TRYING TO GET RID OF THEIR BAD WALL UNIT FAN CONTROLS? HMM!! UGH! I WOUL DNOT BUY THIS PRODUCT IF I WERE YOU!

Functionally identical to the "Harbor Breeze" controller I got at Home Depot about a year ago. I bought a new ceiling fan that came with a 16-code (4 DIP switch) remote, and wanted to add a wall remote. Although this is a new fan from Home Depot, the only wall remotes they now sell are the "Codeless" variety, which means replacing the receiver - and that means, losing the wireless remote that came with the fan! Home Depot has the controller available as Web order but if I'm going to order online, I may as well get Amazon Prime shipping. As mentioned in other reviews, it does have a "Litex" logo on it, but it's no worse than the "Harbor Breeze" logo on the identical-looking remote I have in another room. However unlike that Harbor Breeze controller, this one does not require a battery - it's strictly powered by AC. Very simple wiring, just two black (not polarity sensitive) plus a ground. Set the codes to match my fan and it's off and running, press & hold the green Light button and the fan light dims, etc. This does come with a receiver, which I did not use since I just set it to match my existing receiver. So, fan speed & lamp brightness are not something I can speak to since that's really a function of the part I didn't use. As I often do, I bought these as Amazon WarehouseDeals and saved an extra few bucks, they came repackaged but none the worse for wear and functioning perfectly. Since I was replacing two switches (one for fan, one for light) I had an extra hole in the 3-gang box, I put in a Leviton 6527-W LED guide light to give my hallway a bit of lighting at night, visible in the photo.

Wasn’t a direct replacement for the one that stopped working, but this one is really nice! The receiver “learns” the transmitter rather than having dip switches at both ends. So what, you ask? Well, if I find that the code I chose interferes with other remotes in the house, I only have to set the dip switches in the wall switch. This means I DON’T have to dig the receiver out from the fan box, which is a HUGE pita! Noice!