Molten Speed Wax, 1Lb Bag

Waxed chains last longer, make less noise, rust less in wet and muck, and keep your drivetrain cleaner and prolong its life. And you don't have to take your chain off to wax it. Take off the lower wheel on your rear derailleur and get your chain free. After cleaning the chain thoroughly, I drape the chain over the chainstay (I have a guide I 3D printed), and run the chain through the wax in the crockpot a few times to make sure all the pins and rollers have been immersed. Waxed chains last multiple times longer than oiled chains. You're going to save money, have a better performing chain, and have a cleaner drivetrain. It's a win any way you look at it!

After watching some on-line videos on waxing by those who have done specific chain lubrication testing, the Molten Speed Wax was the most highly rated lubricant available today for most conditions. I was looking for something that would stand up to all the dirt and dust of gravel riding without needing to be cleaned after every ride. This stuff works great! MSW has a really great set of instructions on how to clean and prepare the chain. Once you go thru it the first time, it's really quite simple. You'll need to get a few solvents and cleaners from your local hardware store as well as a small crock pot/slow cooker, but once you do, it's a breeze. I love the minimal maintenance and clean, quiet operation of a waxed chain.

I am a recent “wax convert”. Previously I meticulously cleaned my chain on the bike….with chain cleaning “machines”, brushes, rags, and assorted cleaners…..all very time consuming. Molten Speed Wax was recommended to me by an experienced, record-winning rider. I purchased an inexpensive slow cooker (Mine is 2 qt but the 1 1/2 qt size would do). I also made the swizzle stick (Simple to do following Molten Speed Wax instructions). I bought mineral spirits and denatured alcohol from Lowe’s. My chain already had a quick link on it. The chain link tool is handy but needle nose pliers also work to open and close link. I was very thorough in initial cleaning. The waxing process is simple. Now, I no longer clean the previously waxed chain but simply put it in the wax. I hang mine on a nail and after cooled pull it over a piece of 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe to break it free. I look forward to the whole process now. Do not get hung up in the details. The instructions and videos are very detailed but (as the instructions say) after doing it once, you hardly have to think about it. Molten Speed Wax folks responded quickly to a couple of emails I sent which is helpful to resolve any initial concerns. Multiple sites demonstrate the effectiveness of MSW. (Most lubes probably exceed what we need) The biggest advantage for me has been the time savings and not having the chainring “tattooed” on my calf.

I've been using this for a couple of years now. It is a lot of work to strip a new chain, clean drivetrain, and wax a couple of chains the first time. However, Once that is done, I find it to be lower maintenance than conventional lubes. I ride one chain for 2 months, switch to the second chain (I use reusable KMC quick-link), and then wax them both at the same time. The only part that is any chore at all is watching the temp on the wax. I use my smoker remote thermometer set to go off at 200 degrees in my little crock pot set to low, so even that is relatively easy. So, I go 2 months without having to deal with the chain. The crank and cassette stay clean. It is extremely quiet as well. I haven't tried other brands, but pleased with this. Very pleased.

20 years ago I used to use Performance brand wax on my bicycle chains. Stuff was easy to apply, although this was before the advent of removable links (that I knew of, anyway), so removing and reinstalling the chain was a bit of a pain, with the pins maybe/maybe not reusable. Just microwaved the glass wax jar, dipped the cleaned chain in for a few minutes (attached to a piece of wire), then remove, cool, and remount. After not cycling on a near daily basis for more than a few years (grad school, marriage, kids, you know the story), I decided to get back into cycling for my commute and fun. Helped me shed some pounds and get out there with my youngest, now that he has the bike bug, too. Anyway, Performance does not appear to make their wax anymore, and my 20 year old tub was getting low, so I was glad to find Molten Speed Wax available. They took care of adding PTFE and molybdenum sulfide to their mix, which saves the mess of preparing it by hand. I followed their, and Amazon's convenient suggestions, ordering a small cook pot (AKA Crock Pot, Elite Platinum MST-205XS Maxi-Matic Mini 1-1/2-Quart Round-Shaped Slow Cooker, Stainless Steel ) at the same time as the wax. Prep is easy with a KMC one use link (I get more than one use out of their links, but caveat emptor) or Wippermann multi use link (pricey). If you go with the KMC brand, I suggest a link tool, Park Tool Master Link Pliers . You will also need a chain break tool, Park Tool USA Professional Chain Tool CT-3, 10-Speed Compatible is recommended. Note that I use this tool on 11-speed chains without issue, but only to remove pins, as the links are the better way to go. I used the Molten wax with the little bit of leftover Performance wax remaining, so it did dilute out the Molten stuff a little, but I am a tightwad. My latest prep was on a one month old Wippermann chain Wipperman Connex 11Sx 11-Speed SS Inner Link , highly recommended if you can deal with the high price. Since this chain is on my commute bike, I am OK with the expense if it outlasts the Shimano chains used before. For cleaning instructions I suggest going to the Molten Wax website for the thorough method. Cleaning your chain is key to a good prep. I tend to clean using a sonicator and Simple Green HD until no more washes are dirty, followed by manual dipping in odorless mineral spirits (the clear kind - which can be reused and filtered when stored in a glass jar). I also suggest making the coat hanger wire tool they suggest, but be sure it is sized to your wax pot. Also, using the remainder of the hanger wire, I suggest crafting a six inch piece with a 45 degree angle bend to the last inch of each end to hold your chain together for the replacement link. This prevents a lot of frustration and resulting swearing. The promise is that the wax will no longer leave your chain dirty. I do not completely agree, as the chain still collects crud from wherever you ride, but it is worlds better than a wet chain lube. Waxing is also recommended for dry environments, which I do not live in (does anyone, other than desert dwellers?), but I still find it superior to wet lubes in my decidedly wet location. In between waxing I do apply some Boeshield T9 to the chain, which goes on wet, but leaves a dry wax residue behind. I recommend chain wax and the Molten brand in particular.

Was using a home made wax mix and decided to switch over to MSW. The results are the same as my home mix except more convenient. Chain is clean but like any immersion wax method longevity is an issue. You will need to apply every 340-400km.

I’m giving this five stars but I have only been using this product diluted with regular wax and paraffin oil (I wanted to be sure before going in full—as I was just getting into using solid wax). My next applications will be full strength. A sign of how effective wax is: I had a worn chainring that, as soon as I switched to wax, began to slip! Apparently the wet lube would attract enough grit to prevent chain slippage! Inadvertently I proved that this stuff works and stays working even after a few gravel rides (I replaced the chainring). The downside of wax (any wax) is that the crowns of the gears will attract surface rust (since they are going to be dry and don’t get scuffed during riding). Using some paste form wax to top-up between full applications (or Squirt) works great. I’m getting 500+km between applications. Remember to give the product a good stir before dropping your chain in as the mixture will settle in liquid form. Incidentally, I tried putting my hot wax container with chain in an ultrasonic cleaner and it really speeds up the penetration of the wax — you see a whole bunch of air bubbles appear as the air is displaced by the wax (note that the hot wax container is sitting in a water bath, the chain is in the wax, the water and wax are separated). Last one: I painted hot wax on my cassette sprockets. Some of it sloughs off as expected but it provides a rust proofing protective coating in places that there is no friction. After a 72km gravel and mud fest called P2A and a pressure wash after, the wax was still on the chain and the cassette. Amazing tenacity. I don’t think I’m going back to oil-based lubes.

Este producto es genial para aumentar la vida util de una cadena de bicicleta. Con una transmision optimizada para el terreno, hace que las cadenas duren mucho mas. Actualmente una cadena X01 SRAM dura 7000km hasta alcanzar 0.5% de desgaste. Despues de una correcta aplicacion es necesario re-aplicar cada 200-250km. Mantiene la transmision y la bici limpia y sin pegotes de aceite.

Lots of on-line tutorials from the company. Easy to do, and makes a big difference your drive chain.Need to remove your chain from the bike and you’ll need a chain breaker or quick link pliers for whatever type of chain you have.

Heißwachs ist viel zu aufwändig und müsste sehr oft wiederholt werden. Besser Flüssigwachs verwenden.