Danco HYR270 Hydroright Water-Saving Dual Flush Valve with Push-Button Handle, Plastic, Chrome

First off, measure your tank to be sure this fits before ordering. See product details for fit. I had no problem here. Read the directions and look at the parts and your tank so you know what will fit where before starting. It is not that confusing but it makes sense to know what you will be doing instead of reading each step for the first time as you go. Install was easy, I found the directions easy to follow. There was no need to shut off the water, especially since my value leaks when turned and it is perfect, not leaking, where it is set so I didn't want to mess with that. What I did was remove the tank top. Flush to empty the water out. Then I wedged a something under the arm on the refill float to hold the arm up so it would not keep running while working, although it appears you can do this without that, but you do waste some water while working. Remove the old handle and flush arm. Remove the old flapper. Stick the new Dual Flush Converter in place of where the flapper was. There is a piece at the back that fits around the drain tube with a wedge type fitting to hold it down, rather easy to insert. Screw in the top section of that mechanism. Stick the new flush button in the hole. Test out a few times adjusting as shown in the directions. The new mechanism fit easliy in the flapper hole and was not at all difficult to place there. The only tool I needed was a pair of slip joint pliers to loosen the old handle and nut and put the new nut in place, only because I have a weak left wrist. I would say it took about 15-30 minutes total, i was not trying to set any records. All in all it was much easier than I anticipated. I didn't even get wet or have to mop up when done ! Not that I really needed to conserve water, I live at the beach and we're only in trouble here of a shortage if the Atlantic Ocean dies up. Although we sometimes have flooding so reducing the amount of water flushed certainly won't hurt on stormy days and be easier on the drain field. Plus it might reduce my water bill some and in the long run pay for itself. It won't make much difference for me, a single person, but i'm sure it would make a bigger difference for a larger family. I only really got this because it sounded like a neato gadget to have. What I like is the kwickness of the reduced flush and fill. It gets the job done. I guess it uses about 1/3rd of a full flush. It certainly does not hurt to conserve when possible. All you need to get used to is pushing the top less than half the button in, unless you need a full flush where you push oth parts in. Then also it is push and not flip the hanlde. But that comes quickly and you wonder why you didn't have this earlier. I did find it slightly difficult to push the smaller reduced flush button, but there again because of my weak wrist and also a previously broken finger on that same hand and unfortunately it is easier for me to use that hand than my other fully good one. I found it easier to do by using my middle two fingers, not counting the thumb, instead of one finger. Once I figured that out it is not a problem.

I found this an exceptionally easy to install device that works exactly as advertised. We purchased two of these during a Lightning Deals sale and had no issues installing them. The first toilet took about 20 minutes to install and the second was about 5 minutes. I would rate my handyman skills as good, but not exceptional so it may take you a little more or less time though you can see that after installing one the process is pretty easy. Most of my extra time during the first installation was because I was overthinking the install process. The nice thing was that I was able to perform all of the install without tools, though I did use a pair of needlenose pliers to pull the zip cord that holds the unit in place really tight. I recommend that anyone using this device make sure it is pushed down very hard to make a solid seal and then is tightly secured with the included zip cord. I suspect this is why I don't having any issue with the toilet 'running' after installation where others that don't have the unit pushed down tightly might. Prior to purchasing this, one of our toilets was experiencing an issue where you would hear it run for a few seconds every 10-15 minutes. We hoped this flush converter would help us with that issue but while it helped a little the problem didn't completely go away. I ended up replacing the fill valve with a Fluidmaster #400A Adjustable Anti-Siph Ballcock which took care of the 'running' issue. This fix also didn't require any tools and took about 15 minutes. I note this in case anyone is experiencing a similar problem. I have to agree with a couple folks that noted you need to ensure the partial flush level is set a decent amount below the tank water level for this to work. I currently have the blue slider set about 1" below the water line. I originally tried to set the float a little too high (about 1/2") and the bowl would only empty about 50% of the time. I moved the blue vertical slider down just a little bit and everything has worked perfectly for a few weeks now. I have not measured the water, but I can easily tell that the low flush uses less than half of the tank and the full flush is about 90% of the tank now. All in all I would say this is something that does exactly what is says and is fairly easy to install. If you are looking for a way to reduce your toilet water use this should do the trick for you.

As the headline suggests, I installed these in my parents' respective homes over 10 years ago with no complaints. Seems there's a handful of complaints about the seal thickness and leaking here, but that hasn't been my experience. Also, as others have said, depending on the age and configuration of your toilet (i.e., if it has a traditional ball float valve) you may need a new valve. I've used both the Danco valve included with the retrofit kit (not this product, but includes it in the kit), and and float less valves. Installation is super easy as a DIY project and the instructions are pretty straightforward as far as getting the thing into the toilet tank and running. Where I'd dock points is the explanations on optimizing water use, which they base on measuring the existing water levels in the tank and bowl. It's not hard to figure out, but directions are unclear. But just getting dual flush to work is easy enough. You don't need to be a toilet 'power user.' The other drawbacks: the pushbutton action and the button itself. Since the button lifts a valve fighting the weight of the water in the tank via cable pull, it takes a pretty heavy push compared to my purpose-built dual-flush toilet. Second, the button does not play nice with lever holes that aren't squarely on the front or side of the tank. On one installation where the lever was located at the corner, I had to shim it out with a stack of washers and it looks strange. Lastly, it's kind of an ugly chromed plastic button. Seems a lot of folks prefer the dual-lever version of this. It's a tall ask but I wish they had a choice of buttons to match bathroom decor. All in all, it's one of the few readily-available dual-flush conversions, and IME, they last, and it's cheaper than replacing your whole tank.

As with the filler (see my separate review of that item) this is easy to install provided you read the directions carefully. While it takes only about ten minutes to install it is important to note that once you replace the flapper you need to fill slightly with water just above the seal and mark with pencil then let it sit for 15 minutes to be sure you have a good seal. First time through I did not. Also the "button" should have the small button (short flush) up and larger button (for full flush) down. Biggest problem I had was screwing in the upper unit and adjusting the blue and green slide mechanisms. But if you read the directions and follow them installation is no problem. And once you have done this for one toilet doing for others will not be very easy. I did have to adjust the filler valve height to allow more water into the tank to get the short flush to operate properly. But once again directions are clear on how to do this. Just how much water this will save is unclear but if it prevents leaks at the flapper valve this is worthwhile. Easy to lose a great deal of water with very slow leak at the flapper without realizing it. Sediment, lime deposits etc. (especially if you have hard water) easily build up and prevent flapper from completely closing. Hopefully this will not happen with this mechanism. This fall I noted on my water bill that my use was double normal for that time of year. After checking to see no problem with water line found that it was a very slow leak around flapper valves. So slow that it was not at all noticeable but waste of water was substantial. The matching filler valve notes it does not want you to use bleach tablets in the tank as it could damage mechanism. I do not recall seeing similar warning for this item but may have just missed it. At the moment this is working very well but if I find problems later on I will come back and edit this review.

I tried installing this recently. It didn't take long to install, probably about 30 minutes total of installing and playing with it. I ran into some issues, though, and I ended up having to replace it with a regular flapper instead. Here is what happened. First, the bottom rubber part that you're supposed to put in the hole at the center of the toilet tank ended up getting kinked a little while I was twisting on the separate top part like the instructions say to do. That twisting motion causes the bottom part to move, and that caused it to leak. No problem, though. I had to just remove everything and start over. I was able to get a tight, leak-free fit the second time around by holding the bottom piece in place as I twisted the top piece. I did have to cut the tie-wrap because of this problem, however. Luckily, the kit comes with a backup tie-wrap just in case. Okay, with the unit fully installed, I tried flushing for the first time. The "full" flush worked pretty well, except it didn't fill the bowl up to the 100% mark. I never did figure out how to get it to fill to 100%. But then, I didn't play with it very long. As for the "low" flush, it didn't work at all really. I followed the directions and ended up pushing the blue float down completely while simultaneously raising the low-flush level to the maximum (position 5). According to the instructions, this would give me the most amount of water in the "low" flush mode. Still, it wasn't able to flush even a single piece of toilet paper. But that was all forgivable up until this point, because all I really wanted was a reliable replacement for the traditional flapper. And I figured with more playing, I could probably get the "full" flush to work as well as I wanted. I didn't care too much about the "low" flush. Just one catch: The lid to the toilet tank wouldn't fit back on. Turns out the HydroRight was sticking out over the top of the tank by about an inch or so. Putting a heavy tank lid onto it was too risky for me, because it would mean putting downward pressure on the unit which could eventually damage the rubber ring seal in the tank. It could also cause the rubber part of the HydroRight to kink up and leak. So I removed the product and ended up installing a traditional flapper instead. Bummer. Most of the problems I encountered may in fact be the fault of the tank size. My tank barely fits the companion product, the HydroClean, which I installed at the same time. In fact, the HydroClean sticks out over the top by about 1/8 of an inch or so. My tank must be inferior or something. I'll keep this in mind when I eventually replace it. If I had a taller tank, I think all of the problems I mentioned might go away. The taller tank would allow me to raise the water level inside of the tank, thereby allowing for more water to flush in both the "low" and "full" flush modes. It would also allow me to install the product without it running up against the tank lid. I'm not 100% sure of this, but it's a good hypothesis to test. People here have been complaining about how hard they have to push the buttons. Honestly, it seemed pretty easy to me. I've been to Europe and have used similar toilets there, and they seemed to require the same amount of force. It's not hard. Elderly and toddlers could probably work it without too much trouble. If you have a sprained or broken finger, then yeah I could see it not working well for you. For everyone else, I think it's probably not a real problem. Oh, and speaking of the handle. It's plastic. I would like an option for something a little better. Maybe something made entirely out of chrome instead. It could be an optional extra. Otherwise, I think the plastic will chip or wear out eventually, and it will look ugly. The handle fit my tank well, by the way. I enjoyed it for all of the 30 minutes or so it was on my tank. Anyway, hope you have better luck. I think for the price it's well worth a try. I'm giving it 3 stars, because I don't know if the problems I faced would be fixable with a taller tank. If so, then I'd give it at least 4 stars.

I have now replaced all of the flappers on all three toilets in my house with these. I ordered one to make sure that the dual flush mechanism would actually work and flush everything on the single flush. It worked perfectly on the first toilet on and I ordered 2 more. The mechanism to attach the device is a simply cable tie. It comes with one already attached. I did have to cut off the one that came installed on the unit and use the spare that was included to get this to slide down over the fill tube. Not really an issue, but you might want to remember it when you install. And, the size of the fill tube was not an issue. One of the toilets in the house had a very large fill tube. I was able to use a bigger cable tie and it works perfectly. I had the correct type of water supply in all of my toilets. As others have mentioned, check to make sure you have the correct fill type in your toilet. The units are very adjustable for both the single and full flush. It does take a few minutes to get all of that adjusted correctly. I have gotten my first water bill since I've installed them. With these converters only installed for half of the billing cycle, my daily water usage went down 15 gallons a day for a 2 person household. I'm assuming that this will go up to 20 or more gallons a day when it covers the whole billing cycle. I am really pleased with the results and would recommend that anyone who wants to save water, without replacing your toilets, this is a great option. Update 05/11/2010 We have not gotten a water bill that covers the entire billing cycle. The average gallons per day is down 50 gallons! The three converters that I put in have almost paid for themselves already.

UPDATE (Dec 2011): At Home Depot today I saw an end cap with an infomercial running about this gizmo. However, I took one out of the box, and I was so disappointed to see the same darn paper-thin gasket that I (and many others) have reported to them over the past 2 years. Additionally, the Home Depot staff said they get a lot of returns on this item. This company knows that their gasket is too thin, causes leaks, and that including a higher grade gasket would cost them very little (approx 20¢ per unit). Somehow they can find the budget to launch a Home Depot marketing campaign & produce a new infomercial, but can't spend an extra 20¢ per product to prevent the headaches they're causing. I'll add that my fixes work, but the silicone seal is NOT a permanent solution (already had to replace it once). If this gizmo is not ready to use out-of-the-box, and requires annual or semi-annual maintenance, it is NOT ready for the market. If you want a dual flush, you can get a brand new dual-flush toilet for under $100. Original Review: ====== Ok, I also had two problems when installing this, and I have fixes for the 30+ people who have complained about similar install problems (same root problem in almost every instance). I predict that for MOST people, this dual flush device will not be an "out-of-the box" solution - you will need some troubleshooting not included in the instructions. But I also predict that because of bad installs, some folks here (not realizing it yet) will have running toilets, or will actually use MORE water on the low-flush feature than they did before! Unless you measure it like I did, you'll never know. This is a SERIOUS problem this company needs to address, costing lots of money and wasted water - and homeowners may never even know it! I feel ~really~ bad for the folks who spent hours & hours wrestling with this device, but I promise these 5-minute fixes will work. I wholeheartedly agree that there are design flaws here, but finding a workaround saved me the hassle of returning it & messing around with another brand (and probably an entirely new set of problems). I'm going to stress - you CAN get this to work with your older toilet, and you do NOT need the HydroClean (or any other) device to make this work. I like the HydroClean unit, but IT IS NOT NECESSARY to install your dual flush converter. FIRST: THE LOW-FLUSH FEATURE ISN'T WORKING FOR YOU Again, I totally agree - the instructions aren't clear. I had to try 20-30 flushes before my "Ah-ha" moment. If your low-flush doesn't work, 99% chance the problem is water level is too low. It's not getting enough water to flush. Do NOT hold down the flush button to get this to work - if you have to do that, it that means you're using more water than before! And do NOT flush twice To "fix" the problem - just read on... Solution (bottom line): You need to set the float level for the low-flush (the blue tab) 1/2" BELOW where you want the water line (yes, below). Then, the water line has to be about 2" ABOVE the float, so it can use roughly 2" of water on a low flush. I know it sounds odd, but try a flush - if it doesn't work, keep adjusting the low-flush water level up a notch. I PROMISE - this will work. I know it sounds backwards - but to save water you will need to keep MORE water in your tank. The water is not actually used each flush - it just needs 1.5" to 2", which should translate to .6 gallons or less. (My low-flush setting uses .4 gallons, which is efficient and also 33% less water than national standards for even a urinal). If you have a HydroClean installed, it may actually be getting in your way. So set the float/fill level to the near maximum setting. With my HydroClean, my previous setting was about 1.1 gallons with my toilet (I thought I was saving water this way). But with the dual converter installed, I had to add nearly 50% more water to the tank - so that the low-flush feature can work right. Now my main flush uses 1.2 gals (about 25% less water than national standards), and my low-flush works great too. SECOND: YOUR TOILET IS RUNNING Some people may not even realize that their new dual flush converter is running. A running toilet will definitely waste more water than it saves - possibly wasting hundreds or thousands of gallons a month!!! The problem is the blue "silicone" flapper gasket is CHEAP thin rubber. If it's not perfectly straight, the rubber will fold or ripple & allow water to seep into the tank. Frankly, I would suspect 75% of all users will immediately or eventually experience this. It's a bad design, almost a defect (it needs to be larger & sturdier). I had to refit this 3 or 4 times, but the problem is, once the entire dual-flush contraption is fully installed, you can't see the blue gasket to confirm it makes a good seal. You MUST listen to the toilet a few hours after install, to see if it runs (or add a blue cleaning disc or some food coloring to your tank, then check the color of the bowl later). This can waste 10-100 gallons per DAY (yes, up to 100 gallons) - so if your goal in using the dual flush is to save water, think twice. Solution (bottom line): You will most likely need to seal it with a waterproof silicone sealant or high-grade waterproof caulk. A third potential problem is replacing your flush handle with the new dual-flush "button". If your handle is off to the side of your toilet tank, if you have a triangle-shaped toilet, or if your toilet is right against the wall, then you (or your guests) won't be able to see which button to push. I give this 5 stars for ingenuity, but 1 star for major design flaws.

This thing works great. Always wanting to save water, this is the perfect solution for the toilets. I didn't want to get the type with a split handle you press down but rather the dual pushbutton style that this one has. Initially I bought only one for the first floor half bath to check it out because some people seem to have had a problem with it working properly. It worked out superbly so I went and bought two more for the upstairs bathrooms. As it turns out, for some strange reason, for the third toilet, I couldn't get it to flush well enough for the #1 button. But I determined it to be the toilet's problem and not a reflection of the quality or design of this dual flush converter. If you have problems, you might want to read the following: First, the toilet jets needed to be cleaned out. I did this by cleanly cutting an 8-inch piece of stranded cable (like what is used with a garage door opener) and chucking it up with a variable speed drill. (First flush the toilet with the water cut off at the toilet to lower the water level in the bowl.) Then WITH THE DRILL SET IN THE REVERSE DIRECTION in order not to unravel the twisted cable, I slowly started rotating the cable while inserting the free end of the cable into the toilet jets, one at a time, to ream them out. This helped a lot but still needed more improvement. Second, I temporarily unlatched and set aside the upper housing of the dual flush converter (without uninstalling anything) and inserted a plastic pipe directly into the drain hole in the bottom of the tank. (If you still have the old style flapper type installed, merely lift up on the flapper to insert the pipe.) Then, using a funnel in the top of this pipe, I poured in about half a gallon of acidic toilet bowl cleaner (bought at Home Depot). It drains through the jets and the lower flush port and into the bowl. I removed the pipe and let it sit overnight. It loosens the rust from the jets and all the mineral buildup in the toilet bowl trap. Next morning I reconnected the dual flush converter housing, turned on the water, let it fill, and did a full flush. Third, I noticed that when flushing with the #1 button on this particular toilet, the bowl didn't fill as high as when flushing with the #2 button. This was a function of the old fill valve so I bought the HydroClean HC660 fill valve made by the same company (MJSI, inc.). This fill valve has a really nice feature that lets you adjust with a mini-valve the amount of water that fills the bowl (via the overflow tube). The simple detailed instructions come with the fill valve. I made this adjustment so that the bowl fills just to the point where the toilet trap is full when the tank fills and any more would be a waste. Now everything works perfectly. Addendum: After several days of monitoring, it became evident that the second toilet was "ghost flushing", i.e., the tank would very slowly drain past the seal at the base of the dual flush valve. What I didn't mention above was that this same toilet was doing this before; that is, the old flapper didn't seal well either and once the water level in the tank drops a couple inches, the fill valve turns on to bring the water level back up. So I replaced the old base unit, i.e., flush valve kit which is the part that the old flapper was attached to; this is the part that includes the overflow tube and attaches with big rubber gaskets to the base hole in the bottom of the tank. Of course, I didn't use the new flapper that comes with this kit. Instead I reinstalled the dual flush valve. Now it doesn't leak at all. This is important to understand for those who have had difficulty with the dual flush converter seal not sealing against the old surface that the old flapper sealed against. Good chance that the old flush valve base is at fault. You can't expect the blue silicone dome gasket at the base of the dual flush converter to necessarily seal against a faulty old unit that the old flapper sealed against.