

⚡ Elevate Your Voltage Game — Power Up Like a Pro!
This Waterproof DC/DC Converter steps up 12V input to a stable 24V output at 20A and 480W max power. Featuring an IP68-rated aluminum alloy shell, it’s built for rugged environments including vehicles and boats. With five intelligent safety protections and up to 96% efficiency, it delivers reliable, high-performance voltage boosting with auto-recovery and a lifespan exceeding 100,000 hours.
| ASIN | B081K6PRX3 |
| Best Sellers Rank | #53,860 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #206 in Power Converters |
| Brand | MGGi |
| Color | Aluminum |
| Customer Reviews | 4.4 4.4 out of 5 stars (277) |
| Input Voltage | 12 Volts |
| Item Dimensions | 4 x 3.2 x 1.5 inches |
| Manufacturer | XingHua |
| Mfr Part Number | MG20191116 |
| Model Number | 308075960886 |
| Output Voltage | 24 Volts |
| UPC | 308075960886 |
| Unit Count | 1.0 Count |
| Warranty Description | 1 Year |
W**D
Works well for my solar generator application
Review for MGGi DC Converter 8V-40V to 12V 6A 72W. I'm using this device to provide regulated 12 VDC power from a DIY solar generator to a few electronic devices including an internet modem, a router, a 12 VDC to 19 VDC laptop power adapter, and a couple of small battery chargers that require 12 VDC. The battery voltage on the solar generator can range from 11.0 volts to about 14.7 volts. I didn't want to send this range of voltages directly to these electronic devices, hence the use of this converter. The converter seems to be well made and looks to be of good quality. Note that the two negative (black) leads, one for input and one for output, are tied together inside the unit as shown by an ohm meter reading of 0.0 ohms between these two leads. Therefore, the input circuit and the output circuit are not isolated from each other, and I was able to tie the two negative leads together when wiring this device. I have operated this converter for 7 days 24 hours per day with a load of 1 to 3 amps on it, with input voltages ranging from 14.5 volts to 11.4 volts. During this time, the converter output voltage always read 12.1 or 12.2 volts, regardless of the input voltage applied. Note that the meter that I was reading this voltage from only displays one decimal place, so the output voltage may have only been varying by a few hundredths of a volt. Under a load of 1 to 3 Amps, the unit was just slightly warm to the touch, certainly not hot. I expect that the unit might get quite hot if it were operated at its full 6 amp rating. I mounted this converter on a thin piece of aluminum to act as additional heat sink surface area, but that was probably overkill for my application. I am using this device in the same room as a ham radio. So far I have not noticed it causing any RF interference on the ham radio, although I am not using the output of the converter to power the ham radio since the maximum allowable input voltage of the radio is higher than the unregulated voltages that the solar generator will ever put out. Based on my experience with this unit so far, I am very pleased with it and would certainly buy another one for other projects.
S**R
Good for step up.
Worked well, does not work well if you swap the voltage around. I used it to step up the voltage in a spare lithium battery that was 12 volts so it could power my Bluetti which only accepted a minimum of 16 volts. Wired some standard solar MC4 connectors to it but you can use different ones.
J**S
Worked when I tested it.
I bought this to try and charge a power station faster from a 12 volt source. It works. Seems to give about 184 watts into the power station at 24 volts at 8.8 amps. There is a loss in the conversion. By my math the converter is 94% efficient. I lose another 6% from the charge controller when plugged in. I was getting 205 watts out of the battery, 194 watts out this converter measured by a watt meter, and seeing 184 watts on the display. So, a total of about 89% efficient when all is said and done due to loses on converting and the charge controller. Will charge faster than the regular 12 volt input. It also allows me to add a 12 volt battery to the power station and double the watt hours for the power station. I tested it overnight and it took about 956 watts total out of the battery to keep the power station at 100% over a 8 hour period.
D**M
Solved radio shutdown
When the car ignition cranked, my aftermarket radio would shut down. It could be configured to ignore the accessory power drop (delaying shutdown by up to 3 seconds), but the power always immediately dropped when the engine cranked: I presumed this was due to the voltage drop on the 12V power line when the starter motor turned the engine over. I got my oscilloscope on the job and saw that the voltage dropped extremely briefly (milliseconds) to 7.5V, then spend some time at about 8.3V: the radio was specified to work between 8.5V and 18V. I did some calculations around using an RC circuit but somehow it said I needed a huge capacitor. I considered a buck boost, smaller RC circuit and voltage regulator, then discovered there were off the shelf options like this. This covers a very large voltage range, provides roughly the same voltage as the alternator, and has more than enough current capacity (I've measured current draw with the car and radio on with everything else off and it's about 2A). The install was a bit awkward as it's fairly large, but I found a support member for the dash and screwed it directly on meaning the heat dissipation should be even more effective. Immediately post install, the engine struggled to crank a little, and I became worried about the idle current draw. Rather than take the dash apart for the nth time, I checked the draw at the battery. With the fuse for the audio system pulled, I measured a draw of 7mA. With the audio fuse back, I got a measurement of 21mA; keep in mind that this includes the CAN interface and radio in idle modes as well as the voltage stabilizer; in other words it's likely responsible for far less than the 14mA difference. In short: adding it to the circuit is definitely not a significant parasitic draw. In other words the battery struggling was just from me starting and stopping the engine a few times without driving: no problems since. When I eventually got it in place, and became comfortable with the draw, it's been doing its job. I can turn the car system on as soon as I sit down (giving the radio the 15s to start up while everyone is getting seated) and start the navigation and music, then start the engine and drive. This compares to the prior setup where I had to start the engine running before the 15s startup time began, then navigate and start music afterwards (not great in the garage). Overall it did great it claimed to do and seemed well built: hopefully it'll last.
A**M
Works exactly as described. Minimal power-up surge and easily handles full load without overheating.
A**R
This is a good product. Heavy gauge +12V wiring, runs acceptably cool under 200W load, and is efficient. Calculating watts consumed vs watts output, it is near 95% efficient at the 200W load. Would absolutely buy again.
E**.
Installed the product for few months. In ambient temperature aound 40C, it works well.
S**S
Arrived without issue and looks fine but won't be used/tested for a few months. I keep getting rating request emails so hopefully this stops them.
F**S
Utiliser dans un camper pour recharger une power station Bluetti , qui nécessite du DC >16v. Filage de bonne dimension aucune surchauffe.