Genie (Authentic) GSTB-R (STB-BL) Safe-T-Beam Replacement Kit, Safety Beams, Includes Sender & Receiver(GSTB-R), One Size, Black

I'll start off by saying that this Garage Door Opener Safe-T-Beam Replacement Kit worked perfectly for me. I have a 20 year old Genie Intellicode garage door opener that was here when we bought the house and the garage door opener mechanism has performed flawlessly the entire 20 years. However - over the twenty years there have been intermittent issues with the stock sensors that probably came with the garage door opener. From time to time the stock rectangular shaped sensors would get misaligned causing the garage door to fail to come down. Also - one of the lights on one of the sensors never has worked making it difficult to align the infra-red beam. I have a single 16 foot heavy insulated garage door so having a garage door opener is a must - especially for my wife. In the past month or so the sensors seemed to be failing and at least 5 times I had to readjust the angle of the sensors to get the garage door to close. I decided it was time to fix this problem. I priced a similar Genie Brand pair of sensors at a local lumber yard and they wanted a bit over $40.00 for a kit to replace the sensors. In fairness to the lumber yard - I think that their kit included new wires which this kit does not include wiring. Since my garage door sensors were already working I did not see a need to replace the sensor wiring. I believe this will be the case for most of you if you are having issues with the sensors on your Genie garage door opener.Here is how to determine if this is a job that you want to tackle.If you'd prefer to call a professional to make this swap expect to pay approximately $125.00 including parts, trip and service charge. I know because I called one. He stated that if he had to replace the wiring to the sensors I could figure he'd add another $50.00. He suggested changing the wiring.Tools you will need:1.) Standard flat screwdriver (used to open the old sensors so that you can remove the wiring)2.) Small phillips heads screwdriver (used to attach the wiring to the new sensors)3.) A decent battery operated screw gun to drive the screws that come with the new sensors. (You will need a ratchet style bit driver for your screw gun so that you can use 1/4" drive sockets) I used sheetrock screws instead with phillips heads.4.) A step ladder or something to enable you to reach and unplug the 110V pigtail that powers your garage door opener.How to install1.) First and foremost --- UNPLUG ---- your garage door opener. If you fail to cut the power from your garage door opener and you touch the sensor wires together during removal and re-installation of the new sensors this can result in shorting out the small computer board in your garage door opener. If that happens you will need to buy a new circuit board or replace the garage door opener completely. Suddenly your little do-it-yourself project just got a lot more expensive - if you do not follow this simple basic instruction, you are on your own.2.) Remove the existing screws holding the old sensors (bracket and all) one at a time with a battery operated screw gun. Take your flat-head screwdriver and pry the old black sensor apart. Mine were the old rectangular plastic box style - they had a slot where I could insert the flat head screwdriver and with a slight twist they easily came apart. Once separated the 2 wires were inserted in a slip lock connection. All I needed to do was to slide the small green tab at the top of the slip joint connector and the wire fell out of the connector.3.) Run the wires that you just took off the old sensors through the holes in the arm (bracket) of the new sensor so that the wires have a foot hold in the new sensor. Then attach the wiring to the screws on the back of the new sensor with a small phillips head screwdriver. (It doesn't matter which wire goes on which terminal). The attachment points on the new sensors have a square metal compression sleeve behind the phillips head screws - be sure to put the bare portion of the wire in between the compression sleeve and not just around the screws.4.) The instructions that came with the new sensors stated to install the new sensors 5 to 6 inches off the garage floor. My garage floor is not level but this is how I averted all the measurement and aligning issues. My old garage door sensors worked right? I was able to use one of the old screw holes to set the sensor at the same height as the old sensor. Do not install any other screws at this point - just the one screw will hold each sensor well enough to check the alignment. If you have to twist the sensor slightly it is easier to do with just one screw installed.5.) Install the other sensor as stated above - attach the wires and anchor the bracket arm to the wall or studs with one screw only in the top most existing screw hole if that's what you did with the other side's sensor.6.) With both sensors attached and all four wires attached into their respective connectors - plug the garage door opener back up. Check to see that you have a constant red light on one sensor and a constant green sensor on the other side. If you are as lucky as me both lights will be lit up and you're good to now test the opening and closing of the garage door. If not - and the lights are flashing it means that the beam is not aligned properly. Look at each sensor and check the angle of each - the lighting port that emits the beam should be perpendicular to the garage floor. If it is not perpendicular slightly twist the sensor bracket. You'll know you've hit it just right when the lights on both sensors stay on. Check the garage door for opening and closing once again. Also safety check that you can stop the door when it is closing by breaking the beam with your foot or some other solid object. Do not get in the garage door's pathway until you are sure that the safety sensors are working properly.7.) Attach at least two more screws in each of the new sensor brackets and check to make sure that you didn't effect the alignment with the added screws.Nice Job.Disclaimer : This information is provided as an aid to anyone attempting to replace their existing Genie Garage Door Closer Sensors. Your successful installation may vary. I assume no responsibility that this information is complete or exact in any way. Perform this repair at your own risk.

These replace the old square box Genie sensors. I had to cut off the click-in connectors and stripped wires to connect to new sensors. In order to make it work, I had to split and cross connect individual wires from each side to both metal screws (see 2nd pic). Do not twist 2 wires from one side together and connect to one screw. That didn't work for me and I almost returned sensors. Try both ways and see which way works for you. Now I don't have to make my son hold down button on the wall until the garage door closes all the way down then exit side door. The remote control didn't work to close door before installing new sensors either. Now everything's been working for a few weeks. Save me a couple hundred dollars for not calling garage door service guy.

The Old sensors kept blinking and the garage door wouldn't operate unless I held the button down. The new sensors worked properly without any other adjustments. Would definitely get again.

Accidentally hosed down the original system and had to replace. Works fine.

This is attempt number three for fixing this issue. I finally nailed it! My opener's brand is made by Chamberlin. The problem I was dealing with was a pair of Genie Safe-T-Beam sensors that were being obliterated by bright afternoon sunlight. I tried shading them with tubes and cardboard to keep the sunlight out of them, but the sunlight was still too strong for the sensors to see a strong enough beam. My next attempt involved bypassing them with another brand of sensor that was listed as being compatible any Chamberlin opener. I was disappointed to learn that different types of sensors act differently. The first set of replacement sensors had too much of a delay which defeated the 'All Clear' signal to the door opener. This resulted in the opener refusing to put the door down unless you stood at button mounted on the wall and held the button down. The remotes only raised the door. This was a big improvement over the original situation. I could get the door down. The solution was still clunky for having to stand at the wall button to accomplish that.For my third attempt, I switched the bypass sensors out for Genie Safe-T-Beams, which were the same as the sensors that came with the original opener. These did the trick! I mounted these to the ceiling near the opener and linked them with one of the baffle tubes I used to shade the sun out of the original sensors. The tube keeps the sensors aligned so they won't vibrate out of alignment. The opener now raises and lowers the garage door perfectly, whether it is triggered by the remotes or the wall button.Additional Notes: These sensors do not come with wire. You'll have to get wire from the hardware store to finish this install. I would not use this solution if you have kids or pets because it defeats a safety feature on your garage door opener. The opener's built-in obstruction sensor will still stop the door it if encounters enough resistance to closing. A small child or animal could still be injured if the door comes down with enough force.

The sensors were easy to install. Alignment was straight forward needing only very small adjustment. We are happy with this product.

Old (20+ years?) photo-beam sensors stopped working, so door did not operate properly. Replaced with these--install was simple, remove old sensors/brackets, install new brackets/sensors, connect 2 wires to each, and operation of doors resumed as originally designed.