RioRand Upgraded 6V-90V 15A DC Motor PWM Speed Controller 1PC

The controller handled motor counter EMF without any hiccups. Speed range change was smooth with a linear potentiometer. It comes with 3/4 turn 5K pot that works well. Motor does change was also smooth using a10-turn linear pot. Solid construction and interconnects. Tests were at 6A, 13V. Very happy with this product. Great value. Cheaper to buy than purchase the parts and build.

This unit can be used to control brushed motors. Just the right size for 775 20,000 motors using a bit more current then the upgrade 3018 controllers can provide. It works great with the supplied pot with smooth motor rpm from near 0 to full (20,000?) rpm. It does not work with the pwm output because the supplied voltage is 12 volts and the unit wants 5V. This means the motor rpm can not be controlled by the 3018 controller and must be controlled by hand, so why have CNC control if you are using a knob to adjust rpm?

Perfect for running a small motor.I used a couple of these on separate projects to run small motors and they work well. Just 4 wires to connect - 2 to the battery supply and 2 to the motor and that's it. It is labelled right at the screw terminals for the wires so it's easy to connect up with no other instructions.Very smooth operation. It doesn't jerk at lower speeds like some others.I used them with the "HOSSEN Mini 12V DC 60 RPM High Torque Gear Box Electric Motor" and a couple of other motors in the same class also on Amazon. Cheap solution for a motorized camera slider or rotating turntable.I have one controlling a camera slider and it works perfectly and i have used it for many hours so far. I also have one turning a motorized turntable which i have put about 40 pounds of weight on and it works fine. I run it off 8 x D-cell batteries to get the 12v which works well.very pleased with this purchase.

Used on a 12v fan setup for camper, working good so far! Easy to setup and use. Good control, smooth operation.

The controller seems to work well enough. I'm not sure what type of crimp connectors you're meant to be able to use with this, as the screw terminals are too narrow for any of the loop connectors I had. I ended up crimping on blades and drilling holes in them - not optimal, but they worked. I kind of wish the potentiometer had an on/off switch built in, as some others I have do, and that the knob was just a bit bigger, but it is what it is. I haven't tried mounting this in a box yet, so not sure how well that's going to work yet. I don't find it getting very warm, but I'm only using it for about a 2.5A max load. So can't say how well it does approaching it's max rated amperage.

This PWM seems reasonably well made, has nice set screws for contact wires. Used this on a winshield wiper motor to help regulate wiper speed, but alas, the low position of the knob provides the same wattage as does the high position. So I do not think this purchase was wise. The module works good, just does not achieve the goals I was aiming for.

Originally I ordered a cheaper speed control for the new shaker motor I installed in my virtual pinball machine. It didn't work. Dropped this one in its place and it did the job perfectly. Easy to install, I just wish the pot wasn't a panel mount and was either mounted to the board or included a small bracket to mount as you like.

I'm using this to drive a 24V 4 A motor. The heat sink gets barely warm after continuous running at reduced speed for hours. I'm planing to buy a few more of these for an industrial project. There a few things to be aware of however. The boards I received had quite a bit of solder flux residue on the bottom. This can be cleaned off easly with a little alcohol. The wiring on the potentiometer connector does not follow convention. The Red wire is ground , the Black wire is +5 V. Convention is the opposite. This controller is not going to use the pot but will be driven by a microcomputer. The external control works smoothly with 0 V being off and +5 V is full on. My take on the negative comments are as follows : The terminal connector not being wide enough can be solved by using a ring lug rather than a spade lug. This has worked out well on my test setup. The large 470 up capacitor exploding could be a failed cap. or over voltage. The application was a 90 V motor on a tread machine. The drive voltage was probably not regulated but just rectified line voltage which would exceed 100 V . So the 100 V cap. would be destroyed by over voltage. I recommend these units very highly. The cost is well below the cost of components and the PC board.