4 Pack - 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine

Works Great with my 2013 Toyota Highlander Door Actuator

Fit and works perfectly in drivers side front door on my 2017 Toyota Rav4 XLE Plus. Toyota should be ashamed of themselves for using such a ridiculously undersized motor inside their lock actuators. I Googled and found there are actually several class action lawsuits over this very well known and completely ignored issue. Mine just failed with 21,300 miles on the car. Unacceptable !! I too was quoted nearly $800 to replace the entire actuator and of course my bumper to bumper warranty has recently expired. I am a mechanic by trade and decided to take a shot at replacing the motor not the whole actuator. I did not see much info online about this year and model of Toyota having this issue like all the others so I had to wing it. Removing the door panel and actuator are pretty simple on this vehicle HOWEVER taking apart the actuator to replace the motor on this particular car was an absolute P.I.T.A. There are LOTS of clips and moving parts inside the actuator housing and getting them all lined back up during reassembly was pretty tricky too. Once the actuator is opened up the motor itself just pulls straight up off of 2 electrical pins/ posts that provide power and then the worm gear just slips off the end of the output shaft (5 seconds tops.) I removed the actuator and tore it apart BEFORE ordering the motor to be sure I got the right one the first time. It was such a P.I.T.A to get to the old motor I left the car and actuator torn apart until the new motor showed up from Amazon 3 days later. (On my car the lock actuator and door latch are all one assembly, so the door cannot be closed and latched while the actuator is removed.) There is no way I was gonna tear it apart to identify the motor, put it all back together till the new part showed up then have to do it all over again lol. I just left it torn apart and drove my truck. I know not everyone has a spare rig to drive and may have to put theirs back together while waiting for parts. That would suck. The only way around it would be to take a guess based on reviews and hope you order the right one the first time or maybe order a few different ones and send back the ones that don't work. I did not see my car listed as one these motors would fit. I was very happy with this purchase. 4 motors for $20 is a fantastic deal compared to $800 or more per door to have the dealer replace them.Just in case it helps someone reading this in the future these motors worked perfectly in my 2017 Rav4 XLE Plus which has a different exterior door handle than most Rav's. The two front doors have touch pads to lock and unlock the car without pushing a button on a remote that work in conjunction with the factory proximity sensor that detects your keyfob as you approach the car. To my knowledge only cars like mine equipped with push to start employ this feature. These motors (10mm long shaft with flat side) fit and worked perfectly for this vehicle.I am super glad I bought the 4 pack of these motors so I have 3 spares...... although I hope I never need them !!

These motors were a direct, drop-in replacement for all 5 of my door lock actuators, which obviously includes the rear cargo door. My 2012 RAV4 was assembled in Canada (VIN starts with a 2). All motors were replaced without the need to fully disassemble or cut the actuator housing. Once the actuator assembly has been completely removed, there are 3 screws, each varying in size and location, that need to be removed. Afterwards, the plastic tabs on the outer edge need to be pried back which will allow the housing to be gradually separated just enough to access the motor. The motor will pop out if gently pried up on. Pay close attention to the orientation of the motor when removing to help you understand how the replacements are to be installed. The plastic screw-type piece that the motor's shaft inserts into will need to be transferred onto the new motor's shaft. Try to keep dirt and debris from getting into the threads while handling. There are two tiny inlet ports on one side of the motor. These go down toward the small prongs. These have to be in proper alignment or you'll bend the prongs while trying to seat the motor, which can be straightened back if needed. Once properly aligned, the motor will seat onto the prongs with moderate downward pressure. Just be patient while finding the sweet spot and don't try forcing the motor into position, you'll definitely bend the prongs if you do. Afterwards, assuming everything was done correctly, you should be able to snap the housing back together and reinstall the 3 screws that were removed. It sounds like a lot, but it really wasn't bad. The two rear side doors were the most difficult due to the stubbornness of the housing, which could only be separated with a fair amount of force just enough to complete the job. If possible, start with one of the other three doors to get familiar with the process. The cargo door was the easiest. Also, I recommend testing the latch prior to completely reassembling the door just in case you get a dud motor. Mine were all good, but it happens. Take your time. Be patient. Good luck.

Fits the 18 4runner