Portable Chainsaw Mill 36 Inches 304 stainless steel and Aluminum Planking Milling Bar Size 14 Inches to 36 Inches

Works great

Have used this mill now for several logs along g with a famertec 660 and 42" bar. The jig works vary well but you will want to upgrade some of the adjustment hardware to coupler nuts for ease of adjustments down the road.. I watch how you assemble it and use a roofing square to ensure your spaced correctly on both thickness adjustments before starting your cut and it'll go as easy as the expensive ones. Would but again!

The clamping system for the chainsaw isn’t sturdy enough by itself. The saw will move off track and cause the chain to hit the metal blocks. You need to use the two screws, one for the tip and one for the back. The saw blade will have a hole at the tip you can use. You will have to drill a hole in the center of the rear of the blade to secure the back. That’s the improvement they mention at the end of the manual. Once you do that the blade will stay centered in the guides. The clamping method will keep the screws in place. Just make sure the chain moves freely as you tighten the bolts holing clamp bracket together. Aside from that the sawmill works as designed.

I do not regret buying this

It takes some getting used to setting up before cuts. Not exactly the smoothest actions and the clamp for the solid metal bar that runs by the handle is poorly made. It wiggled loose mid cut. It worked though. You get what you pay for

I bought this mill to make lumber for wood shop projects. The local store doesn’t sell slabs of sufficient thickness for what I want to do so I wanted to make my own. This mill does the job perfectly.I have it mounted to my Stihl 461 with a 32” bar. I bought a ripping chain for milling and highly recommended that you do so as well. A standard chain should have a cutter angle of around 30° where the ripping chain has a cutter angle of only 10°. It is also sharpened with a special flat/angled file instead of a round file. It is made for milling and should not be used for general cutting.There are no step by step instructions for assembly, but it comes with a schematic that shows how to put it together. It took me about half an hour. Mounting it on the saw is pretty strait forward. Just make sure you clamp it where the sprocket/tip meets the bar, not on the sprocket rivets. Doing so will compress the tip and not allow the sprocket in the tip to spin freely, ruining your bar which can get expensive. I get about 25" of useable bar with the 32" bar. I could probably get another inch if I were to take the dogs off the powerhead but that’s a lot of work for minimal benefit.When milling, go slow and make sure you support the slab with wedges or shims to keep the weight of the slab off the bar. Let the saw do the work and don’t rush it.For the first cut, I made a rail out of some 1x4 and scrap 2x4 pieces. I secure this to the log with screws on the bigger end first and measure to my intended line which I draw with a level on the log end. On the smaller end I shim up the rail to a similar line the opposite log end. I then set the mill for that thickness and make my first cut. For subsequent cuts the mill rests right on the previous cut without the rail. There are videos on YouTube showing how this works.Overall, I am happy with this little mill. It makes accurate cuts of any thickness. I was surprised at the weight. It is very light and easy to use. If you’re wanting to mill your own lumber I highly recommend this mill.

Finally got to use this after a year or so. It definitely took some trial and error. But it holds solid, nothing slipped or flexed. Did exactly what it's supposed to. I would suggest keeping some extra bolts with you for the part that clamps to the bar, and make sure everything is tight. Would definitely recommend this to anyone that wants to try.

First off, it cannot be overstated how poor the instructions are. If you're mechanically inclined, you might be able to get it assembled, provided that the pieces you received aren't out of spec (they will be). Many of the pieces have been updated since the instructions were originally photographed, so you'll be left to solve the mystery of which pieces have been substituted with even cheaper junk. For the pieces that are present, it is difficult to describe how frustratingly close, yet misaligned/tapped the pieces are. The tools they provide don't precisely fit the hardware they include, so you'll round off the bolts. They obviously eyeballed the poor spot welds, because the corresponding fittings are just enough out of alignment that you *might* be able to get it assembled after tinkering for hours. Any money that you thought you would save by purchasing this inferior version will be wildly offset by the loss of your time trying to guess at the assembly and trying to get it to work. Sure, you likely have a can-do attitude if you're using a sawmill, but purchasing this is adding a herculean assembly project to whatever you already have planned. You can safely assume that you can add a day or two to your project by the time you'll finally get this fully assembled. Then the problems will really start... Because of how things are misaligned and poorly produced, the first time you attach this to your chainsaw, the nuts will start to jiggle loose and the amount of slop in its pieces becomes a dangerous liability. Please learn from my mistake and just spend the extra coin getting the name brand version, knowing how much frustration and danger you will have saved yourself! DO NOT BUY! DO NOT BUY! DO NOT BUY!