8" Box Joint Cutter Set with Tico Hi-Density Carbide for Perfect Square Joints - Includes 2 Blades, 1/4" & 3/8" Groove Widths, 5/8" Arbor, Anti-Kickback Design - SBOX8

I used these to cut 3/8” rabbets along both edges of some longer boards for floating shelves I’m building. The blades gave a nice clean cut and were easily able to handle the rip, which I was initially worried about since they are designed for shorter cuts. This didn’t bog down my compact portable saw at all as long as I fed nice and slow with good dust collection. By the way I have the DeWalt jobsite saw (DWE7485) and the blades fit just fine on my arbor and even fit with the provided throat plate! Highly recommend these blades!

I wanted to make box joints and bought this to do that. It works wonderfully at 1/4 and 3/8 inch (what it supposed to do). Makes clean cuts. I got my money and more in value. Recommend.

I bought these blades after trying to make box joints with a set of Avanti dado blades from Homer Depot. Those blades shredded the wood and cut a curved bottom, making it impossible to make a clean fitting joint. Enter these blades by Freud... These blades are sheer perfection! They are razor sharp and make perfect cuts. The sides are straight and have zero tear-out. The bottom of the cut is perfectly flat. Couldn't get any better no matter how much you spend on a set of blades. I will mostly use them for 3/8-inch joints. The cut was within .002 inch of that size. These are the best joint blades I've ever used. Don't hesitate to buy them. You will not regret it at all.

I've used a lot of freud blades, and they are generally exceptional. This set is also great, however I did have one issue: When I first set this up, I was cutting slots that were a bit uneven: That is -- one side always had a bit of a raised shoulder that was about a hundredth of an inch too high. Instead of a completely flat slot, the joints would never fit together quite right unless I used a fine chisel or file to even it out. I actually called Freud about this, and they told me to check the arbor on my saw. They were right! I added a spacer washer between the blade and the end of the arbor, and suddenly, the joints were perfect. The issue was the saw -- not the blade set! I would give this set five stars had Freud included this tip anywhere in the instructions. But now that the issue is solved, I recommend this set. Very clean and very easy to use.

I've been using a Jet 10" "bench top" table saw for making box joints for boxes, drawers, etc. using a DIY sled. This model of table saw will not accept a dado blade so any cuts wider than 1/8" (width of saw blade) had to be made by multiple cuts. Fortunately I found this box joint cutter set that uses two blades, without requiring shims, to cut 1/4" or 3/8" cuts and will work perfectly with the Jet saw. The other plus with this cutter set is that it makes flat cuts so there's no needed clean up.

EASY set-up for either 1/4" or 3/8" cuts (no others available), that work great as soon as installed.

I was struggling to find repeatability with my existing Dodo stacked set. The shims were causing greatest issues. As long you know you will only be able to use for 1/4" and 3/8" width joints; these blades are perfect. SUPER SHARP and PRECISE

I bought this blade set to give me a perfectly square (flat) miter for a spline key. I'm building interior shutters for my windows - lower half of the window, hammered glass shutters (to let light in while providing privacy). My frame for the shutter is 2.25" oak with a channel for the glass and using 45 degree miter cuts on the corners. A very weak joint for this. I needed to strengthen the joints with the spline key, but finding a blade that cut square was impossible. All of the teeth cut angles, and this leaves a "V" shaped base on the cut. Also, I needed 1/4" for the cut, not 1/8 which a normal blade would provide. I have the Excalibur dado blade from Craftsman (do they make these anymore?) but that also doesn't cut a perfectly square channel. I really didn't want to invest $100+ in another dado blade (one with two outside blades using extra blades between them to provide the width). I researched my needs and encountered this blade. I thought it answered my needs, so I ordered it. Note: I built a jig to hold the shutter so the corner can be cut. The blade, using the 1/4" cut, cut the corner without any chipping or pulling when it exited the joint (oak can easily splinter if one is not careful). I was able to quickly and easily cut all 8 corners on my set of shutters and insert my splines without issue. I did wait until my cuts were made before I planed down the spline board so I was able to ensure the proper fit. So, if you are making shutters or anything else with a 45 degree corner that needs additional support besides glue, this blade (and appropriate jig) make terrific cuts for spline keys. Note: In shear laziness, I didn't want to change blades to rip the spline key oak after planing it to the proper thickness, so I set up my rip fence with this blade - it doesn't do a good job ripping - way too much to cut at one time. It did the job, but I won't do that again!