System Three SculpWood Paste Wood Epoxy Filler, 4 oz, Brown

You can buy the putty consistency epoxy wood repair all over the internet and some stores. This stuff is different and has been hard for me to find. Consistency is in between liquid resin and putty. The consistency of the resin part is like cake icing and the hardener is like a thick pancake or cake batter. When mixed the final product is somewhat between the two but as hard as any other wood fill epoxy when cured. Working time is similar to putty formulations out there. If there is a better product for skimming or filling grain for a mirror smooth durable wood surface (like a piano surface) on a vertical or overhead surface I haven’t found it. I’ve found that having liquid, this stuff and putty epoxy on hand has been invaluable in restoration and wood repair.Finally, don’t complain if you didn’t read the description of what you were buying. People that do that and wrongly drive down product ratings should be banned from giving reviews.

First off this is a great product. I'm writing this review because so many other reviews were just wrong. This is a paste which means it will behave like a paste. People complain that it doesn't fill deep voids... Well it's not supposed to. It has a very specific purpose so when people downgrade because it didn't do what they expected then it's not a fault of the product... It's just ignorance. If you want to to fill deep voids or create a form then use putty. Dont give bad reviews because a paste behaved exactly like a paste. Also, this stuff can 100% be applied to vertical and overhead surfaces. It's the same consistency as a slightly wet drywall compound... And that goes on ceilings just fine. It's a great product. Finally...this product isn't expensive... It's relative to the market. Find me a super cheap epoxy that works half as good and I'll buy it. Doesn't exist... Remember... This is a paste! Not putty! (their putty works great too BTW)

I have several mediums from System Three. I am doing home refurbishing on 70 year old Florida home. I use the epoxy for filling in on areas in wood that is missing or where I had to remove punky wood. There is another medium that feels "dough like" for building up structure. There is a medium for every job. As long as you don't mix in the hardener, the product will last indefinitely. It bonds beautifully and looks great after primer and paint. Follow the directions. Watch some videos and learn to restore.

A few years ago I hired a "pro" to fix some rotting decorative columns in front of my house. He patched them with Bondo but didn't fix the source of the water leakage nor did he kill off the fungal infection so it all came back. I tore it apart and, using System Three's RotFix, Paste, and borate products, I patched it up. I ran out of the Sculpwood Putty and ordered more but accidentally bought Sculpwood Paste which is really a thick syrup, not a paste. It turns out to be perfect for filling cracks up to about 3/16" of an inch, something that the putty won't do well at all.Everything is sealed up tight now, even the tiniest of cracks; I doubt I'll have water problems again.

Mix equal parts of A and B and get a first class epoxy for filling cracks, knot holes and rot in wood. Just finished painting my house and this product worked great. Be sure to thoroughly mix the two parts and apply. When using on a vertical surface I let it set up for about 20 minutes on a cool day, less on a warm day and it filled counter sunk screw holes, knot holes and cracks in the wood. I let it dry for two days and then painted the wood to protect the repair, The epoxy does not appear to be U.V. stable. A+ product

I am giving this a five star rating after using to do some restoration on some 1937 windows that have diamond glass and are really a chestnut of the look of the house. There were significant issues with rot and galvanic rot in the Doug Fir used. These windows are south facing really get the sun / rain cycle here, the weather side.First task was to just get them freed of the many layers of paint. I want to add I was given some great advice on not just what had to done, but also the general workflow and order of work. By time this came into play I had already treated the wood and also used their StopRot product. Used the supplied gloves and starting with two ping pong ball size scoops, one from each container, found it very easy to work with. The lower rail on each window had significant repair needs as did the lower portion of both stiles.I used some oak lath with plastic barrier to form some very difficult 'lost portions' one of which is 1/4 inch wide by maybe 1/2 to 5/8 inch deep that hides the hinges. ! I have to say that coupled with the StopRot pre treatment I am extremely impressed.Really the same story goes for the repair of the window sill and fascia wood around the outside opening. Significant issues. And following the same process all the original shape returned.The working time, they recommend 15 minutes worth of mix at a time to start, was ample but as I say I had done some significant prep. I used metal putty knives to get the sill shape back. It does dry to a seeming soft and sandable texture and if you slightly overfill the sanding even say in a case like an ogee or double ogee shape can be matched with time and care.It really made a very difficult project possible and the restoration looks fantastic and I believe will last a good long time.The dried color is not a concern as I am painting all these areas.

Used this product in a couple different size containers of the past few years to fix a couple window sills. Works great! Drys hard and still sandible. Depending on the weather it can take a couple days to not be tacky anymore. Once it's painted you can't tell where the repair is.