SharkBite 1/2 x 1/2 x 3/8 Inch Compression Tee Stop Valve, Push to Connect Brass Plumbing Fitting, PEX Pipe, Copper, CPVC, PE-RT, HDPE, 24984A

Thank you for existing Sharkbite! I had a saddle valve coming out the middle of a water pipe and going to a humidifier go bad (again). I was fed up and searched for "saddle valve alternative" online.3/4" x 3/4" x 1/4" compression valveDuring the covid19 lockdown I couldn't find all the parts to sweat-fit (solder) up to make a replacement. I wanted to use a toilet shutoff valve because they're slightly less awful than saddle valves. HD store said they had 14, got there and nothing! Literally order this from their parking lot with my phone.I turned off the water and turned on the faucets upstairs to let air in, and opened faucet downstairs to let water drain.Okay, I took a Rigid 104 pipe cutter and cut my 3/4" pipe running across the basement ceiling in half. By the way, 3/4" copper water pipe has an actual outside diameter of 7/8". USA copper pipes are 1/8" bigger than what they're called-annoying!The saddle valve left a hole in the side 9f the pipe, so I actually had to cut on either side of the hole. The result was a copper ring with a hole in it. Kind of like a wedding ring with a hole instead of a diamond. Anyway, that fell on the floor and rolled away. Never found it.I then used the orange Sharkbite depth gauge cleaning tool thing to rub like putting chalk on a pool cue. That chamfered the freshly cut edges so I wouldn't damage the Sharkbite's insides. Then I took a pencil and marked the insertion depth (ran a pencil around the edge of the orange thingy). The depth gauge cleaner tool is cheap, totally worth it and looks like a neon orange panflute. For tight jobs you can cut the depth gauge diagonally into 3 pieces.Anyway, I pulled the pipes together and they were able to touch, so insertion depth wasn't an issue.I then jammed the Sharkbite evenly, but firmly on one of the pipe ends. Then the other. That was about it.I then attached my 1/4 outside diameter line to the little valve that's tee'd off. If you're using that clear-ish 1/4" pipe to run to a refrigerator ice maker or whatever you need to put a brass tube insert inside of the end (this isn't included) then you put the brass ring over the end of the clear tube (the brass ring is actually included) then you tighten the nut and the ring crushes on the tube and the brass insert.Or you could buy a stainless steel "1/4" compression line for water". I got one on here for $7 for 6 feet.Oh yeah compression tubing is measured and named for outside diameter apparently. The 1/4 plastic pipe actually measured about 1/4". It's actually the fitting, because the stainless steel version is really thick, but the nuts are the same size.I parked my car at 2pm exactly and I finished at 2:28 exactly. Keep in mind I was cutting a pipe over my head while standing on a stool with water drizzling out of it. Even though I drained the system for a while.For some reason I was freaked out and pretty sure something would fail (uneven cut? Sharp edge tearing the internal seal? Leaky valve?). Nope, all good: and the little valve is way, way better quality than a saddle valve or toilet/sink shutoff valve.I'm so relieved. Only 28 minutes,.working slowly (and spending time waiting for water to drain). I would have taken photos but I was sopping wet, lol!Tools used:SharkbitePipe cutterSharkbite orange depth gauge/cleanerPencilNew 1/4" hose tube (because I didn't feel like buying new brass inserts for my old tube hose)28 minutes from parking car to turning water back on and saying "wow!"

I purchased the 1/2" x1/2" x 1/4" size fitting, so I could install an RO water system in my house. I've used hundreds of Sharkbite fittings...elbows, butt connectors, caps, name it...NEVER had a leak or a problem, so I rely on the quality. I receive the package quickly from Amazon, but in the sealed factory bag, there is only the joint, the 1/4" line nut, and a brass ferrule for the 1/4" line. The listing says 'works on copper, PEX, PVC, etc.'...so I'm using this on an all-PEX water line...1/2" faucet line, tapped for the 1/4" PEX RO line. I keep looking at the bag, before I open it.. and keep thinking, 'there should be an insert for that PEX 1/4" line...so the ferrule crushes on it...right?' But then I think, 'well, it's a Sharkbite, so maybe there's an insert built into the inside of that 1/4" fitting female...and I won't need an external one on that PEX 1/4" line. I put it all together...without the line insert...tighten it down...HOLY MOTHER OF BATMAN...water EVERYWHERE! Seems Sharkbite didn't care to INCLUDE that insert, after all!So...I have to mop it all up, can't find that brass insert for the 1/4" OD PEX RO line locally...so have to wait 5 DAYS for a bag of inserts to arrive! YOU MUST USE INSERTS AND FERRULES if you are tapping 1/4" OD PEX on that valve line side!!! AND, from what I've seen, THIS DOES NOT COME WITH THE INSERT!!!MAJOR ERROR on Sharkbite's fault! If you say 'it works with copper, PEX, pvc, etc.', then BY GOD INCLUDE THE INSERT! You included the ferrule to make it work with copper, which you mentioned...so either remove PEX from your instructions, add a note 'you will have to use your own line insert for PEX', or simply add the $0.01 insert with this $20 valve!Worst part about it is, when I ordered and received a bag of high quality inserts, and used them with a new ferrule, THE SHARKBITE NUT WOULD NO LONGER WORK! Apparently, a different profile angle on their ferrule than on a conventional plumbing ferrule...so I had to also throw away that nickel plated line nut too...and replace with ALL NEW BRASS to get the water-tight seal expected!BAD...BAD...BUSINESS on this valve, Sharkbite! Not impressed, at all!

Works just like all the other 5 star reviews made me hopeful it would. Replaced a stupid saddle valve for the icemaker which no longer shut properly. I did the prep without the gage tool -- just found the proper insertion distance from the SharkBite website (1 1/8 inch) and measured (and measured again and again). Cut pipe with basic copper tube cutter and sanded very clean with aluminum oxide fine grade sandpaper.

This product was exactly what I needed! We had a new refrigerator installed a few months ago and the contractor who was remodeling our kitchen ran a new 1/4" poly water line to the fridge. He tapped the new line off an existing copper pipe with a saddle valve. Ever since install, the water dispenser in our refrigerator had extremely low pressure to the point that it took too long to fill up a glass of water and we stopped using it. I read numerous blogs trying to trouble shoot the issue and ultimately determined that the saddle valve was the bottleneck. After watching a few how to videos, I was ready to attempt to replace the saddle valve with the Sharkbite 24983A 1/2" x 1/4" Comp Tee Stop. I have zero plumbing experience, but consider myself relatively handy fixing small issues around the house. Install could not have been easier. Within 15 minutes I had great water pressure in my refrigerator and I could finally get rid of the giant water pitcher that had been dominating my refrigerator.

Fits fine, works wellUnable to find this part in the shops (home depot, lowes, home hardware etc) for a broken humidifier system tee valve attached to my furnace,Easy to connect, just slide in the tube and it grips perfectly, no tools are required.Pricey though.

Used this to connect a new dishwasher in my daughter's new kitchen. Just cut the old pipe, cleaned and sanded it and pressed the new cutoff valve into place. Worked well first time. No problems. Make sure to allow for 1 inch of pipe to be inserted into each end of the valve.

Cut, push, done! No leaks right away and the option to remove with tool. Water flow improved drastically to ice/water!

Used to tap into my 3/4” PEX line for a humidifier installation. No leaks, fast install. The body of the Stop Valve rotates after installation so getting access to it is a breeze. 5 stars

Works as expected, no issues.