Full description not available
Manufacturer | SUNLU |
Part number | SLUK-PETG-BK+BK+BK+BK-1KG*4-GMSLUS |
Item Weight | 1 kg |
Package Dimensions | 40 x 21.21 x 12.6 cm; 1 kg |
Item model number | 3D Printer Filament PETG Filament 1.75mm |
Size | 4KG |
Colour | 4KG Black+Black+Black+Black |
Material | Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol |
Batteries included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
A**X
Srtong as ABS easy to print lovely shine
Another great filament to my collection. All my SUNLU filaments are always wound properly and neatly. I like consistency, shine and colour. After having problems with printing ABS i was looking for something a bit tougher than PLA+.Update: Whoever have any problems printing it please remember min temp 240-250°C and bed 70, default cura 4.6.1 profile for generic PETG is actually great, you might need to increase retraction to 5.5-6 if you have a Bowden style extruder. Please check my pictures. Belt bracket settings 4x wall, 0.12 height, 25% infil, 8 lines skirt 240c/70 speed 50mm on all wall and infill.
L**A
Great once you get the settings down
Beware, the descriptions on this page are mostly wrong, they've gotten PLA and PETG mixed up. This is probably the primary cause of the poor reviews here.PETG you need to print much hotter than PLA; my Ender 3 prints most PLA well around 200, PLA+ at around 215, but for this I need about 240 or 245. Without enough heat you will not have enough extrusion (look for gaps in the layers) and you get really brittle prints as a result. Fan speed probably needs to be around 50% after your initial layers.This PETG does string a bit; that's not something that bothers me, I use it for parts that need to be really strong and it achieves exactly that when printed correctly.Adhesion can be difficult. I normally print on the Creality coated glass plate, but at regular PLA printing speeds the PETG simply won't stick too well; my prints warp and come off. I've read (not yet experienced) that PETG sticks to glass too well, but I usually stick some painters tape down on the plate, print on that, and that works really well for me. Gives an interesting texture too. Flexible bet plates should work too.Photos: The bigger part in this print was printed with 100% infill at a 0.2 layer height (photo taken after removing the stringing), and it is really strong. The temperature tower was printed at a 0.28 layer height, which is why the text is a bit hard to read.
R**S
Set for PTEG and it prints well
The media could not be loaded. I’ve used Sunlu before with no problem and this is the same. Decent enough print once you set you printer for it ( it’s PTEG not PLA!)Only issue I have is the colour. White is a kind of milky translucent white and not a solid white.Maybe that’s just a property of PTEGOvers it’s a decent enough filament.
S**B
Very impressed
For average printers, this may be a strange material because it requires adjusting parameters.First of all, SLOWER. This material is sticky and sticks well, but you can't give 70mm / s or it will all be wasted.As for me, it works 235 degrees C, 40 mm / s and 0% cooling.Up to 20% cooling can be given, but you must have a 3 wire fan. If you don't, it is better to turn off the cooling completely.And of course a heated bed. 70 degrees C will be fine.The prints came out much cleaner than from PLA. I made a glass tank for my e-vape to start.Then a few things for the kitchen. It's a really good filament, just need little more attention than PLA.In the photos, you have a comparison with transparent PLA.
M**S
Struggled a lot to get what i needed out of it
First off I'll say I did get some prints out of this Filament.I printed a bed handle and a laptop stand.... out of the full roll.I went through so much filament testing temps and getting them right and trying to eliminate stringing which i never fully managed to do.A fried of mine believed the filament may be old due to the issues I was having, in the end just to get some bed adhesion I had to use glue with has ended up ruining my glass print bed as where the glue had hardened it and taken the coating from the bed.The 2 items I did get out of the filament were decent enough after a bit of clean-up.Just as an exampleI done around 15 temp towers and 30 odd retract towers (speed and distance) with this filament and could never get my stringing tests with no stringing (nozzles were clean and unclogged etc.)overall I love the 2 pieces I got out of the filament but was majorly disappointed with the quality of the filament, id be reluctant to recommend it to anyone with telling them there will be a lot of work required to get it to print acceptably.Also as a test i got some PETG filament from a friend (different brand) and i completed 2 temp towers and 6 retract tests (3 speed 3 distance) and got my stringing test nearly perfect. just a few tiny wisps which was to be expected.Maybe i was unlucky and had a rubbish roll but was very disappointed with my results.ive added some images of some tests and the 2 items i got out of the roll.
B**L
Excellent reliable PETG filament
Sunlu is my go-to brand for PETG as I've found it gives excellent reliable results. The set up is a CR-10 printer with E3D V6 lite hot end. I find that temperature settings of 220C and 75C for the bed work very well. The print bed is glass (mirror tile). I used to use diluted PVA but have found that 3DLac works far better. (Do not print directly onto clean glass because it will stick permanently.)
S**M
Frustrating to use initially - once you get the settings it is really great.
Frustrating to use initially but once you get the settings right it is great. PETG tends to string so do slow down. I use minimal cooling. The ambient temperature and draughts do affect prints, especially tall ones and it can distort because of this especially if thin. I use additional bed adhesion with brim or raft. Bed temperature around 70 deg C with Nozzle temperature of 215 deg C. Finishes really well with patient and carefull sanding. Results can look like molded parts and is easier to use than ABS with less smell and no nozzle jams. Will be purchasing more.