POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer, Stops Rust, Corrosion and Leaks, Resistant to All Fuels, Alcohols and Additives, 8 Fluid Ounces

My motorcycle gas tank was really rusted inside so here's what I did . First I filled it to the top of the fill hole with ordinary white vinegar. I then let that sit for probably two days. After the two days I poured about half of the vinegar out and put some nuts and bolts inside then shook it all around to try and loosen most of the heavy rust. Rinse with a water hose many times till it comes out clear. Use the POR15 Cleaner Degreaser per the instructions then rinse again. Use the POR15 Metal Prep per the instructions and rinse again. The tank has to be bone dry before adding the POR15 Sealer ! Once dry, add the entire can of sealer and seal the filler hole up. (I used electrical tape ). Slowly turn and roll the tank so that all inside surfaces will be coated and take your time ! Drain as much excess sealer out as you can . Once you've opened the filler hole let the sealer dry for at least a week ! My motorcycle tank looks like new inside !!

This stuff is amazing. Not only have I used it to seal a motorcycle tank that nobody would have tried to use, but it actually stays! Mind you, I did not have any of the preparation products they suggest to use beforehand. I literally hit my tank with hydrochloric acid, Naval Jelly, washed it clean, dried it, and applied the magic. Por 15 does not seem to care about dirt, imperfect surface preparation, oil, gas, rust, acid, and probably some water and rust that leaked out of the vent hole. You literally just pour it into your tank, and swish it about. This one can easily did a 5 gallon tank found on a 1982 CB900C. It sealed holes a 3/16 drill bit could have easily fit, way cheaper than a new tank, and leaves a perfect film in the tank. It's heat resistance is also fantastic! I have used this to repair a cracked crankcase on a 1982 Harley XL1000, and it not only sealed it, but moves with the aluminum, and does not lift off. That's literally inside of an engine, and it didn't even have time to full cure.

I have two Honda express NC 50 two-stroke motorbikes 1980 models .. both had rusted gas tanks. I use Muretic acid to clean out the tanks. Then I use the sealer to seal inside the tank. I used three coats and I’m very happy with the results.

I used the 3 part kit on my rusted out fuel tank of my Honda trail 90. Started with the Cleaner/degreaser…I used this 4 different times with a bunch of screws to really clean out the tank. Each time I did it, I kept getting more and more gunk out. You really have to give it a good shake…don’t forget to count the screws you put in so they all come out. And to be honest, it’s probably impossible to get all the gunk out. Used the Metal prep after. I let it dry for about 4 days in the sun before moving on to the next step. Final step of sealer…had to plug the 2 fuel lines with long nails and duct tape. This part is the hardest…you really have to move the “liquid” around so it coats all parts of the tank…I thought I was doing a good job but I still didn’t coat all parts…mostly the roof of the tank is what I missed. It says not to reuse the sealer after you dump it so I didn’t…and I didn’t want to buy another one so I just left it as is. The areas that I did coat look great. Process is long…so don’t think you’re doing this in a couple days.

POR15 products need no introducing .This can easily did my 2 gallon Motocycle tank, you'll need to strip and fully de rust the tank first or IT WON'T WORK .Needs serious mixing, the bottom of the can was the separated out part, I tried shaking it a while to no avail so I used an old CLEAN large flat bladed screwdriver to slowly turn and turn it until the colors were fully mixed, takes a goodly long while .Once opened the stuff needs to be used soon so DO NOT OPEN THE CAN UNTIL THE TANK IS DE RUSTED AND YOU'RE READY .I used a medium sized plastic funnel to pour it in then I capped the tank and began rotating it to ensure the mix flows into every corner and crevice ~ this is not a job you can rush .After making sure it had fully coated the inside of the tank I cleaned up the stirring screwdriver and funnel, it's easy to do if the stuff is still wet, once it dries it's *PERMANENT* so watch there you're working as it WILL NOT COME OFF EVER . floor, driveway, clothes, etc. .if the tank you're working on has any pinholes, be sure to tape them up first, this stuff is amazing and plugs BB sized pin holes easily .Don't forget to follow the instructions to the letter and remember to keep tuning and tipping the tank so the mix covers all crevices and the inside of the top too .I polish then wax the tank first so any droplets I might spill are easy to wipe off right away .I also tape around the filler neck with blue painter's tape because I'm extra cautious .I used this product in a 'Hail Mary' to save a 40 year old badly rusted and leaky Motocycle tank, I hope in time I'll find another but fr now it works fine, the ethanol laced fuel doesn't seem to bother it .I imagine I could have done up to a 5 gallon tank .-Nate

2011 Triumph Street Triple 675R.Had the tank repainted and while it was off some flash rust took over the tank. I followed the instructions as directed with cleaner and metal prep prior to using this (comes in a package with all three). The can of sealant is very small and I poured half the can in immediately thinking it might be enough. After running it around the inside of the tank multiple times for about 45 minutes to an hour (to make sure I got it all) I poured out about 1/4 of it. You'll use another 1/4 of a can in 24 hours to coat anything you may have missed - which will be a few small spots only if you do it my way haha. Otherwise it coats perfectly. I let it cure for about a week before putting any fuel in the tank. I'll update this later based on usage and wear.

Very good product

Shake up good before use