E-Z LOKKnife Threaded Insert for Hard-Wood, Stainless Steel Thread Inserts 1/4-20 Internal Threads, 0.500" Length(Pack of 10)

I used these to provide a strong anchor for attaching metal legs to a 1-inch-thick black walnut desk. Although I had never done this before, it worked out well. Strong and sharp. Practice installing a few times first and then take your time when using on your expensive wood. I used a bolt the size of the internal threads with double nuts to drive this into the wood. Worked great.

Expensive but does the job! Well made

Installing stainless steel 8-32 inserts into the heel of any bolt-on neck will create the best neck joint you could possibly hope for. This is a fairly simple procedure that will yield excellent sonic transference between an electric guitar's neck and body. This sonic quality is truly noticeable by most players. It also makes the neck easy to remove and reinstall perfectly, but you already know this from reading prior reviews.Here's the stuff they don't tell ya...First, DON'T think for a minute that a 10-24 insert will be better in a guitar neck, as in most cases this brings the holes too close to the edge of the neck. This may not be the case on some bass necks. While careful drilling may yield decent results with huge inserts, do you really want test your skill on your precious neck? It's totally not necessary as the tensile strength of this 8-32 arrangement far exceeds your ability to tighten the neck. You can crush the wood with the 8-32 hardware if you're strong and foolish enough.Next, in my early daze, I was dumb enough to do this installation using a hand drill. I was lucky it worked. Here's my advice... DON'T EVER USE A FRIGGEN HAND DRILL, even if the eBay ad you got this idea from says you can. Sure, it can be done, especially if your doing this procedure on your $59. First Act guitar made from 100% recycled cow pie. If you don't have a drill press, find a friend with one that you can work both electrically and manually (turning the main pulley by hand). You really, really, really should also have a neck cradle of some kind that allows you to clamp the neck (frets down) onto the drill press table so the neck is stable and square while you drill.Next, aside from electrically drilling out the 1/4" pilot holes with a sharp 1/4" Forstner drill bit, this will be the only time electrical power needs to be used. The rest of the procedure is done by you turning the drill press manually by hand. You may need a second person to either turn the press's pulley or to actuate the feed lever. Personally, I do it alone, and hope to god no one is watching me, cause it can look weird spinning the pulley by hand whilst applying downforce to the press's feed lever and holding the neck steady.SAFETY NOTE... when turning the drill press by hand, consider first unplugging the drill press from the wall outlet. This is always a good idea before sticking your hands into things that will gladly remove your fingers and ruin your guitar-playing experience.DRILLING THE 1/4" INSERT HOLES.... The Forstner bit is great at showing you where you're about to drill. While centering your bit, you can manually touch off the hole lightly and the bit will naturally make a perfect circle around the existing pilot hole. This lets you judge if your X & Y alignment is correct before you actually plunge the Forstner bit into the wood.Set your drill speed slow enough so you don't burn the wood. Carefully set the Forstner's plunge depth to bottom no more than 1/4" past the insert's seated depth. Once done, immediately set your depth stop (so you don't forget). Do NOT drill any deeper than you have to. This just weakens the wood unnecessarily and may make new vent holes in your fretboard for all those hot licks you'll be playin'. You almost definitely will have to cut your 1-3/4" s.s. screws down to the exact length you need- all you truly need is at least 3 threads to catch fully when screwing your screws into the inserts. 4 or more is only marginally better but may give more satisfaction / confidence). As the wood compresses over years, 3 threads catching may turn into 4 threads catching.TAPPING YOUR NEW HOLES should be done with a 5/16-18 "bottoming" tap, manually turned in the drill press. While turning, apply some light downforce to get the tap started. The threads will begin to cut in allowing you to discontinue the downforce. BTW, a "bottoming tap" is simply a tap that has a flat bottom (no tip) so it can thread all the way to the bottom of a hole. You can usually turn a normal tap into a bottoming tap on a grinder.Now, you're probably saying to yourself that the insert's outside thread is a 5/16-16, so that's the tap you want to use, except you'd be wrong. Sure it will work, but not optimally for this type of installation. The 5/16-18 threads become progressively wider apart in relation to the S.S. insert's outer threads. This gives you perfectly sync'd threads at the beginning of your tapped hole, but then they start to mis-align with the insert's outer threads as it cuts in deeper in the 1/4" hole. This causes the insert's outer cutting threads to cut into more bare wood. REALITY CHECK... The whole point of the insert's outer "cutting" threads is that they need to cut their way into VIRGIN wood to be properly seated. The 5/16-18 tap allows this to happen towards the last few turns while seating it. Also, you should install the insert no deeper than the correct depth the FIRST time. Do not over insert it, then back it out to make the depth right. The correct depth is somewhere around .005" below the surface of the neck's heel. BTW AGAIN... by tapping the holes, this will prevent any chip-out around the hole when inserting the inserts. Countersinking to prevent chip-out is unnecessary and unhelpful.INSERTING THE INSERT... If all you have is a couple of jamb nut and a washer on an 8-32 thread with 4 sides filed flat (so it won't slip in a chuck), go ahead and use it to drive in the inserts. But if you want something that works much easier, simply use an 8-32 X 1/4" or 1/2" Allen head cap screw to drive in the insert. Drive it in manually on the drill press with the appropriate Allen driver bit firmly locked in the chuck (usually a 9/64th Allen driver bit). This will drive it in dead square and the screw will back out effortlessly once the insert is perfectly seated. Just a quick counter-clockwise jolt on the drill press' main pulley unscrews the Allen head cap screw. No fuss, no muss. And since a visual-robbing washer isn't required on the Allen head cap screw, you can easily see how far you've inserted your inserts into the wood. This is a simpler way IMHO than doing it the jamb nuts / washer method.WHERE DO I GET S.S. SCREWS THAT HAVE THE SAME HEAD AS A FENDER NECK BOLT? McMaster Carr has them listed under part #91802A204 for the 1-3/4" length and part #91802A203 for the 1-1/2" length. Both are 18-8 Stainless Steel Oval Head Phillips Machine Screws with 8-32 threads. Some people like using the 1-1/2" s.s. screw. Others like to use a 1-3/4" s.s. screw and cut it to the perfect size if need be. Also check out Jamestown Distributors. They're listed under "#8-32 S/S Machine Screws OP".Oh yeah, before attaching the neck to your body, you may want to consider using 4 inset neck washers instead of a standard 4-bolt plate. This is because a standard plate could easily warp under the intense tension of your new neck connection. You could look for an extra-thick 4-bolt plate. I think Callaham or a company called Tiapantone.com (probably defunct) may make one. GFS makes one but be aware all their parts are usually made by the lowest Asian bidder. REMEMBER, all these different bolt-on options require different length screws and insert hole depths.Good luck. Try not to hurt yourself.

I ordered these inserts to be used in a Stratocaster guitar. Generally, those guitars have necks that are attached to the body using long wood screws. In my case, I installed the inserts into the body so I could use machine screws, also of stainless.The inserts went in perfectly (I used my mill to locate and drill the holes, and I used the installation bit for these inserts, also on my mill, to install them), and worked very well. But be forewarned...if you use stainless steel screws with these inserts, make sure you use some sort of lubricant or anti-seize on the threads before assembly. Close fitting parts made of stainless, especially this grade of stainless, will literally weld themselves to one-another if you install them dry! I used Johnson's paste wax on the threads of the screws for my guitar project, so that I didn't get grease or oil on the wood!These inserts have no provision for preventing them from being removed. There is no barb or ledge that, once screwed in, keeps them from unscrewing. They're supposed to be for installation in hardwood, and usually in those situations, you don't ever remove the insert...so they should have some way of locking themselves in place. On the other hand, if you anticipate having to remove these inserts at some future time, perhaps this is a good thing.

The media could not be loaded. They’re perfect. If you are having issues with these it’s because of your lack of skill, not anything to do with the inserts.Reverse spin your bit when you start your hole to prevent tear out. Then switch to forward drilling. I use the higher speed setting on the drill with forstners to install these.Use a 3/8” for the 1/4 20.A lot of complaints about EzLoks installation tool. I’ve never used them because a nut driver works perfectly. Get a bolt and some nuts, and use a nut driver.Adjust your torque so you don’t send the thread insert deeper than you need.

J’ai acheté ces vis d’encrage pour le visser à ma table en bois massif, mais j’ai eu beaucoup de difficulté en les testant sur du pin blanc. Très difficile à visser même en augmentant le diamètre de la mèche. On finit par ne plus avoir assez de mordant pour quelle reste en place. La tête s’abîme rapidement. Je pourrais dire que ce produit serait bon pour des matériaux mou comme le tilleul ou certains types de plastiques. J’ai utilisé a la place des vis d’encrage à 6 pans creux pour utiliser avec un hallen key.

Good quality.