Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W, Tip Size 5.5 * 2.5mm for LCD Monitor, LCD TV, 5050 3528 5630 LED Strip Light, Tape Light, Rope Light, Wireless Router, ADSL Cats, Security Camera

Works great!

Great ... It puts out the volts -- 11 maybe 12 volts ... lots of volts .... and don't get me started on the amps. There are amps to burn. And the power I can't even begin to calculate the power this baby puts out. It is like maybe 70 W. I ran it for hours and it put out many, many, many joules with no problems. So I would give this two thumbs up. My only issue with it was that I wish it had an LCD display to show me the status -- how many amps, volts, watts -- that kinda thing. I also wish it was WiFi enabled with an embedded web server so I could access and control the power supply via my smart phone. A camera would be a nice extra too so I could monitor the local area. I use it outside so it would be good if it had a small weather station and rain gauge so I can turn it on/off based on the current weather conditions. Getting this power thing up and running was rather quick, but I have some experience with these. A more complete set of detailed installation instructions may help a less seasoned installer -- maybe some how-to videos.

I bought this power supply to replace another power supply that had caused major havoc with my computer. This power supply works wonderfully! I recently bought a cheap 12 volt power supply (that LOOKED a lot like this one but was NOT this one) to replace the wimpy power supply that came with the Lepai 2020A+ amplifier I connect to my Apple iMac. The very first time I went to plug in the audio cord to the computer there was a spark from the plug to computer and the computer went dead. Three weeks and $850 later to replace the logic board and the power supply in my Mac I had my Mac back. During that three weeks I learned that SOME power supplies have half of the supply voltage floating on the DC negative side of the output. That's why when I plugged that cheap power supply into my computer it sent 65 volts AC from the 12v negative side through the ground of my computer and fried it. When I received this one I was very reluctant to test it with my amplifier computer combination because I shouldn't afford another $850 repair bill. And when I measured AC volts from the DC negative to the ground pin on the power plug I was reading 44 volts AC! But then I remembered that my meter has a very high input impedance which means that if I hold the leads with my hands it'll measure that much AC floating in my body..... but if you load that down with even a 4,700 ohm load that voltage drops to zero. Well, I didn't have a 4,700 ohm resistor but I did have a 3,900 ohm resistor that I placed across the meter leads to load it down and bleed of the floating voltage. As soon as I did that the voltage I read from DC negative to AC ground dropped to .124 volts (1/8th of a volt) ! Now I knew I could trust it and I connected it to the amplifier and everything worked just fine. The moral of this story is "Don't trust just any power supply. They are NOT created equal." (even if they have the same electrical ratings) You can trust THIS power supply ! In fact, I have purchased two more to use on my other two Lepai amplifiers. (By the way .... don't let the picture shown here on Amazon fool you. It DOES have a 3-prong plug so that the power supply IS grounded. (the one that fried my computer did not have a 3-prong plug)

I'm using these as a power supply for LED string lights, and thus far they are working great for me. A couple of suggestions if this is your application also. First, don't try to use a 6A power supply if you have a continuous draw of 6A from the lights. You're asking for trouble, through early failure of the power supply and/or possibly burning the power supply up. Especially considering that these are Chinese sourced, I would only recommend drawing 50 - 75% of what the power source is rated at, or 3 - 4.5A in this case. That way, you have a much better chance of only having to install these once, which is the goal, right? Second suggestion - if you're connecting multiple strings to a single power source, connect them in parallel rather than in series. That means, don't connect one string to the end of another string, but run wire from the power supply to each of the LED strips separately. That will shorten the delay you see when switching the lights on, and you should also see less dimming from one end of the strips to the other. Regarding my second suggestion, I've seen different explanations for that delay you may notice when switching on LED string lights; I think I can state for certain (at least in my case) that it's caused by the electronics in the string lights themselves, rather than the power source. I have one situation where I have a single power source powering three light strings in parallel, which are cut to lengths of approximately 5, 10 and 16 feet. Every time I switch them on, the 5' length comes on first, with the 10' length coming on after a brief (1/4 second or so) delay, and the 16' length comes on after an additional brief delay. Happens every time, gotta be the lights.

Sadly I don't know enough about electricity, specifically determining power supply needs. I needed a 12V DC power supply for Peltier Junction & PC fan cooling application. But wasn't really sure about the amount of current needed. The Kastar AC Adapter Power Supply did run for 10 minutes or so, then stopped. The power supply was very hot to the touch. I was able to cannabilize another more robust power supply, from another of my projects, so wasn't stranded. The biggest incentive, for purchasing the Kastar AC Adapter Power Supply, was that it included the nifty connector. Including the connector just made it an easy implementation. A word to the wise. Make sure to size adequately.

I got this for my Mediasonic ProBox HF2-SU3S2 4 Bay 3.5” SATA HDD External Enclosure as the old power supply replacement stopped working after 2 years. I had to get an adapter to 4 pin mini din connector and so far it seems to be working good. I hope it lasts longer than the last one. I think the original power supply that came with the unit was good, but I got some bad advise when troubleshooting it and ended up replacing it, where the original problem was with the power supply. I fear I may have to replace the power supply every couple of years now.

I had bought a Kinter K2020A+ amplifier (https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-Original-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) which came with a very bad power supply. (no grounding, constant humming leaking into the amp). This Kastar replacement is cheap and works great with the amp, it has a grounded power cord, the humming noise disappeared and it can handle the amp at max volume. Note that I haven't used the green adapter so can't vouch for it.

Bought this to power a 12v pico-PSU which was rated at 90 watts. The mini-ITX build on which I used it, however, does not draw more than 40 watts tops at peak load -- so this power brick should have been a safe bet. Indeed, it worked quite well for about three months. However, after using the workstation to perform an image processing task for about 2 hours, the computer shut off and the power brick began to make a crackling noise. I tried plugging the brick into other wall outlets, and its little green light would briefly light up before the brick started crackling again. I removed the power brick casing then again plugged it in (carefully), and I identified the crackling noise was coming from sparks where the power cord was connected to the brick's circuit board -- one of the soldered connections at that point was very loose. As far as I can tell, this connection overheated and melted the solder thus loosening the connection. I apologize for not uploading pictures; I had discarded the power brick after I saw this. I supposed I could have re-soldered the connection, but the fact the soldered connection melted in the first place left me concerned about the safety of the brick as a whole. If the power brick was indeed overloaded (which I do not think it was if indeed rated at 6 amps or 72 watts), it should have just shut itself down, not melted and sparked. The label says "UL Listed", but that does nothing to reassure me at this point. This power brick is a fire hazard. Thankfully, the power brick did not damage anything except itself. When I purchased this power brick, it was not called by the brand name "Kastar". I suspect the actual brick sold via this link is rebranded from time to time, or a different (cheapest at the time?) manufacturer is chosen. In any case, this will be the last time I try to save money by going cheap on a power brick. It's just not worth it.