DROK Blue~Tooth Board, 12V Audio Receiver Blue~Tooth Module DC 5V-12V Portable Wire~Less Electronics Stereo Music Receive Circuit Chip with Micro USB Port for Headphone Speaker Home Sound System DIY

I am a purchasing consumer reviewing a product I purchased. I am not receiving anything for posting this.5-stars easy. No complaints, I bought twoSome of the reviews below state this board is a 24-35V device. It uses a GH27G / AZ1117E power input chip, that's only designed for 13V max. I STRONGLY DOUBT this device can withstand over-voltage by a factor of 2x-3x. The Amazon product description seems correct at 12V. Disclaimer: I only power mine with a standard 5V micro USB cable. I haven't actually tried it at higher voltages.[3/21/25]After several more days/nights of critical listening I stand by all my initial impressions below. I don't know if its component burn-in or what but something slightly "bloomed". The sound image is more layered now compared to a Y-RCA cable straight out of the ipad headphone jack. The harmonic content surrounding notes, room acoustics and ambience in recordings seems slightly more distinct now. The sonic differences between L/R Multi-tracked instrumentation are a little bit clearer and easier to hear. There also seems to be more energy at the extremes of the sonic spectrum. Below ~45Hz is bloomier and more resonant. Above ~6K seems more delicate, articulate and refined. The difference is very slight mind you, maybe an ~8% perceptional difference (if that). It's (honestly) probably just my hearing perception adjusting and picking it up for the first time.This is my finding with all my headphones, none of which are commonly known to be high-detail revealing. I am going to dust off my old AKG K701 and Koss A250 today and give a listen with those. Those are my most analytical / accurate headphones. FWIW I am not a 100% believer in electronic component "burn-in". I know for me personally my hearing perception sensitivity can vary greatly. I am a STRONG believer in blind A/B listening tests, and that's really the only way to validate my impressions. The eyes can strongly influence what the brain / ears hear. I attached a pic of my electrical tape mod to help dim the blue flashing LED.The instructions have an illustration with headphones plugged directly into the TRS output jack. I tried that and it was awful. Probably a gross impedance miss-match with lower Z cans and IEMs, and a severe power deficiency with my 300 ohm HD650. I would only use this as a line-level device.[3/13/25]I power with a micro-USB plug. Plug into my Larocco PPA headphone amp with a cheap RCA "Y" cable. I use an ipad as BT source for ALAC and 320k mp3 files. Absolutely no issues what so ever after 3 nights of critical listening. The circuit is "black background" silent. No hiss, no hum, no clicks/pops or digital artifact noises of any kind regardless of ipad volume setting. No radio frequency noise / interference either. Sound quality seems to be well balanced no offending boost or cuts to the sonic spectrum. It is a very "dry / uncolored" sounding circuit when used as a line level device. I A/B compared it with a plain "Y" cable out of my ipad... and I really could not hear any significant sonic differences. These impressions were made using sennheiser HD650, Koss KSC75, Grado HF-1, Truthear Zero Red, JBL T110. Frankly I am pleasantly surprised. BT connectivity / reliability has been solid... as reliable as the cheap RCA-Y cable it replaces.I bought two of these so I could use my headphone amps with BT. This will help reduce some of the wires and clutter on my desk and nightstand. I will probably mount one in a small project box and just use a micro-USB plug for power. The second one I think I can squeeze in the second amps enclosure, and tap into the 12V DC part of the circuit.The blue LED is CRAZY bright at night. I cover it with a small piece of black electrical tape and it helps. I wish it were the opposite, solid ON when connected to BT and flashing when waiting to be paired. But that's not nearly major enough to take away a star.Reliability of course remains to be seen.I will post dated updates to this review as my opinions change.

Short and simple:Small, runs on almost any common DC voltage (5V-35V), great sound quality, little power draw, connects quickly and seamlessly. Great for almost any DIY bluetooth project, this is the one to buy.The long story:Used this in a project I just finished, a late 1980s Panasonic RX-FM16 boombox. Instead of D cells the boombox is now powered by an Anker USB battery pack through a USB to 9V adapter. I connected the module also off the 9V line and put it on a switch so it could be turned off when the radio is being used on FM/AM bands. Through some research I was able to figure out which IC on the radio's mainboard was the tape-preamp and remove it, then wire the output from this module (through a 3.5mm male cable) to the pre-amp output pins. Simply push the play button on the tape deck (which now has the motor disconnected and removed) and the amplifier turns on, then switch on the bluetooth module on and you have your music in crystal clear sound. As you can also see everything tucks neatly away in the original battery compartment, as if it was meant to be. Don't mind the hot glue. I've had zero issues with connectivity and the sound quality is excellent, no issues running on 9V but your mileage may vary. Unit connects immediately.

For the low price it's pretty nice, puts out surprisingly clean sound and has decent range with the built in antenna with no connection issues. I velcroed it to the bottom of a little plastic box, runs fine off a switching phone charger but seems to sound a little better powered with a transformer based 9 volt wall wort I went with. Theres a little white thing on the board that runs a little warm, an op amp I'm guessing. The only thing I don't like is before it's paired the output is wide open and you get hum out of it. Other than that annoyance it's a great little board.

Works great. What I like about this is the aux port on the module. When the module is unpaired, the aux port is connected to the output. Exactly what I needed.

Heard Good gain as well. Used this in place of a different one with lower gain.

I used this module to add Bluetooth and AUX connectivity to an AM/FM radio I'm building. The output can either use the tiny solder tabs on the circuit board, or you can opt to use the provided 3 pin cable and connector and modify the end of the cable going to your amplifier. This board DOES NOT have an amplifier circuit built in. In my application, I'm using a MONO LM386 amplifier so the output of this board (L&R) has to be summed together. I snipped the end off one end of the cable and exposed the L&R wires (white & black), and the ground was bare braided copper wrapped around the other two. I soldered a 1K resistor to the end of each black and white wire, heat shrinked them, and then tied the ends of the two resistors together. The braided copper ground ties to your ground and the summed L&R wires go to the positive input of your amplifier. I used the onboard push in connectors for supplying the power. I'm using 9 volts DC to the board and it sounds fantastic once hooked up to your amplfier.

I love this board. It works just as good as it looks. Switches between auxiliary and Bluetooth audio beautifully.PROS:- Affordable- Easy to operate- Comes with cable connectors and extra headers- Built-in audio jacks- Power flexibility through USB or direct power (5v-12V)CONS:- (none)