Dorman 47076 Vacuum Storage Canister

This has a built in one-way valve. Be sure to get it plumbed correctly or it will not function. And I just got done replacing the one-way valve coming off the manifold! Oh well, now there's two in series. The hooded port towards vacuum actuators in dash, the non-hooded port towards engine manifold. Yes I was using this on a "does not fit" project. The 1992 Roadmaster and Caprice (GM B bodies 91-96) have vacuum canisters up under the dash above the glove box but you cannot get to it without removing the entire dash. So I bypassed it and placed this dorman under the hood where I can get to it easy. For those that need the info, here is the vacuum line color code. Orange Line: Controls the defrost door. Gray Line: Controls the fresh air/recirculation door. Purple Line: Connects directly from the under-dash vacuum canister to supply the main vacuum source to your climate control selector. Black Line is vacuum supply from manifold to the under-dash vacuum canister. I accidently pulled the purple line off the under-dash canister and did not want to pull the dash, couldn't even see the port/canister under the dash with a snake cam. Original problem on the Roadmaster was the vacuum selector valve as part of the climate control apparatus. One half has a sector gear that rotates when you slide the selector lever which is attached to a linear gear. The other half is fixed with colored vacuum lines running where needed. Between the two is an application specific (It appears roadmaster is different than caprice in this case) molded silicone seal that channels vacuum as needed. The two halves were held together by a plastic center clip that kinda looks like a rivet with two hooked ears. The ears snapped off. Judging by the buildup on the seal since that rivet snapped, musta been 20 years ago. Replaced the plastic rivet with an M4 thin flathead and nylock and voila, back in bidness. I'm just glad all the vacuum actuators still function and without leak. Right here on amazon pick up a vacuum / brake line bleed tool to test actuators, they are inexpensive and effective. I use 3mm and 4mm silicone vacuum line as well as 4mm hard plastic line. When joining use clear RTV like GE2 or JB Weld. Stick the hard line in the soft then rtv around the interface, permanent joint.

The Dorman HELP! 47076 Vacuum Tank Unit was used to fix my van as the A/C only came out of the default defrost vents. It comes with its own internal check valve and no other parts are needed to make your AC run again. NO hose cutting is required. Thanks to the rednecks on Utube, you can disconnect the red line (wrapped) that is located just behind the oil filler neck. Remove the doghouse, run disconnected line back toward inside of van. Remove a bolt on the passenger side of engine cover near top. Use an awl or a small screwdriver through the bolt hole to push through the engine insulation. Peel back some of the black plastic insulation, which can be trimmed later. Pull off the connector on red hose and pull through the removed bolt hole. (It is tough to pull off, but it will come off, and then can be placed back on after threading through bolt hole). This end fits perfectly on the big port on the Dorman. On the passenger side inside the cab on the right are two hoses, a white and a black one. The black one goes through the firewall. Wiggle the bushing that goes through the fire wall and pull it inside a bit and unplug it from the ‘other’ side. This side will fit perfectly on the smaller connection on the Dorman. Fire that puppy up and notice the air now comes through the vents! The Dorman will fit up on the right side under the dash where you have to slightly push it past some wires, where it will now stay. Done! No cutting and no other parts used. Ignore the dead ends of the old hose. The hardest part was taking the doghouse off, which is made easier by the outside plastic housing on it just lifting off giving you more room to horse that pig out of the way.

Very very pleased with this product. It was a tremendous value. My old Ford truck’s AC works but I’d lose the dash vents airflow to the floor and defrost vent when I’d accelerate. I knew my old Tun can vacuum canister must be leaking. I bought this new one off Amazon hoping it would fix the issue. It did! Now my AC stays blowing at me and I’m pretty sure my truck now has a lot more power. I could not be happier. Also, it was super easy to install. I don’t usually write reviews for Amazon but I’m doing for this!

I have a 2011 Ford E-350 cutaway van, and I bought this reservoir on the recommendations here. I had to take the doghouse off, disconnected the red vacuum line by the oil fill...pulled that line through into the truck, after a drill a hole through the side leading into passenger side of vehicle. I found the black vacuum line under glove compartment (right side), and connected this reservoir tank. Red line goes to bigger port, black line goes to smaller port. I did buy extra 1/8" vacuum hose (from amazon), as you will need to push existing black vacuum line (after you cut it) into the new black vacuum line you purchase. The existing black vacuum line is a hair small for the port on this tank. I wire tied the tank up so it can't be seen...and now my A/C works like a DREAM!

Priced so you can replace the old canister without going deep into your wallet. My 2002 Sonoma has the original vacuum canister mounted in the front fender where you cannot get at it and there is nobody selling a new OEM unit anyway. I just tucked this one in nearby and shifted the hose, easy! Did not solve my problem but eliminated one possible problem. Would be nice if it came with caps to use on the unused vacuum port instead of telling us that it has a valve inside each port to prevent leaks. It comes from China...do you believe that is has valves inside? I plugged the unused port with epoxy-now I know it won't be leaking.

Perfect fit on a '82 El Camino. Fits without any issues in original location and hose fitting diameters accept the existing lines without any slop.

Jewelry RV Me on YouTube has a great video on this. search for this. Search for this title: Ford E450 A/C Vent distribution Problem and vacuum Canister bypass: Quick Clean Easy Fix :) So, our 2000 Ford E-450 6.8 liter chassis for our RV had the established issue of the vacuum canister going bad which means there is no vacuum to the vacuum switch in the top of the dash which actuates the doors inside the dash that route air to the AC / defroster and floor vents. When this happens the switch sticks in the position to make the defroster work and the AC doesn’t work. You need this, the video above and 5 feet of 1/8 inch vacuum line. I installed this inside the cab under the passenger side of the dash with a zip tie. I’m not sure if it matters, but I installed the big side going to engine with my new bypass vacuum line and the little side toward the existing line from the vacuum switch on top of the dash.

Lasted 5 years, but this happened idling in traffic when it was 92*. Not as heat tolerant as OEM

worked well, just as advertised.

The vacuum tank works as it is supposed to. The shipping on the other hand, had much to be desired. They lost the first one on 2 day shipping, then stuck the second one for replacement in the mail of all things. For 2 weeks, I did not have proper 4x4 or heater controls while waiting for the product to arrive. All good now though.

Hard to explain and dont have a picture, but after about a month or 2 it now looks like a deflated ball? It did not melt due to heat. The INITIAL fit and finish and.. shape.. was good.