SharkBite U870B100, Blue PEX-B Pipe-Potable Water, 3/4"

Supringly once you get the hang of it it's not hard to straighten it out put a concrete block on the one end to hold in place while uncoiling did over 300 ft straight run and also multiple small runs so glad I didn't try to do it in PVC. Pex is great and this shark bite is doing amazing job from well to irrigation etc

I'm not a plumber. I was replacing a crappy Bosch tankless hot water heater in my basement with a new Navien NR 180 A tankless. Originally I planned on just using the existing plumbing. It would have fit fine and taken me less than a couple of hours to install, but that plumbing had some serious design flaws. Like I said I am no plumber, but common sense tells me a pipe shouldn't branch off the main water line at a 90 degree elbow pass over the heater on the hot water outlet side turn 90 degrees to go 3 inches to the middle of the heater then turn 90 degrees to go to the bottom of the heater then turn 90 degrees to go to a scaling filter located below the heater then pass through to the outlet of the filter turn 90 degrees up 2 inches and then 90 degrees back 5 inches then, at last, turn 90 degrees up to the cold water inlet. That seems a little excessive on the 90 degree elbows, all of which were soldered 3/4" copper. Then the hot water came out of the hot water outlet through a flex line that hit a straight pipe in front of the heater till it hits a 90 degree turn going back towards the heater but 3" below the ceiling till it is hits another elbow going up to the ceiling into another elbow that leads back to the hot water line next to the cold water line till it hits two more elbows that climb in step fashion into a joist bay in the ceiling. My conclusion is that someone hired a plumber from a Dr. Seuss children's book and I couldn't live with it any more, but as I said I'm not a plumber and hate sweating copper pipes that are attached to wooden structures that are covered in highly flammable foam insulation that is sprayed into the bays and can't be removed. The only solution I could find was pex. I used 2 - sharkbite connectors and 2 Sharkbite 90 degree pipe supports and two sharkbite flex connectors and got rid of about 15 feet of copper pipe and 15 copper elbows. I was also able to locate the heater 7 feet closer to the bathrooms and kitchen. I had no problem finding the numerous youtube videos on how to install pex and use the sharkbite connectors. I went with the push fittings, because I only needed two of them to join the existing copper to the pex and two of them to connect nipples for the scaling filter and the hot water outlet. The tools for the crimping connectors are very expensive, while the only tools required for the push fittings is the tubbing cutter and the sharkbite deburrer/ gauge. I was surprised that none of the joints I created leaked at all. Now I have a clean looking hot water heater installation and no more Whoville plumbing.

Well, so far it's a 5-Star. After having been without running water for a month -- because my spring dried up due to the drought -- having this PEX to hook up to a well has been a blessing. It seems to be holding up to the water pressure, and i'm *hoping* it will last for a long time . . . fingers crossed.

I used this product to install a new back yard water hydrant. I made a connection to existing synthetic water pipe in the crawl space and used shark bite connectors and crimp rings. I purchased the crimper on Amazon too. Then trenched out to the location of the new water hydrant. I used 2 inch PVC pipe as a protective sheath over the Shark Bite pipe and refilled the 24 inch deep trench with native soil after a leak test. No issues or leaks. Doggies liked it too!

Great stuff....Definitely would purchase again.