Extended Thin Rip Jig Table Saw Jig Guide for Repeat Narrow Strip Cuts Works with Table Saw Router Table Band Saw - Extended Version 2

easy to set up. works great. i love it

My vintage table saw lacks a riving knife so I'm looking for ways to reduce the possibility of dangerous kick-back. I'm using this t-slot mounted roller as a board hold-down. It think it will work out fairly well, with some limitations.I wish the manufacturer had drilled 5 holes instead of 3 holes on each side. It would have been a piece of cake for the manufacturer to do this, whereas I couldn't place the holes that I added as low down as I'd have liked them to go, because I have few clamps that fit onto my little drill press and had to live with what worked. With the additional lower hole on each side the roller can be mounted higher and now I can fit a 1-3/4 inch (44mm) thick board under the roller when the roller is mounted on the top track of my shop-made extrusion fence. Before it maxed out an about 1 inch. With 5 holes in the same original spacing on-center a 2-inch thick (50mm) board would fit under the roller, in my setup.Some expensive (over $100) hold-downs/precision stock guides sold in pairs (infeed and outfeed) have urethane rollers, which this roller lacks. I haven't seen any marring yet but a version of this roller that had a urethane roller bearing assembly mounted to the face of its slider would be a winner. I think it would beat the name-brand competition for versatility in term of stock thickness.In my setup, I replaced my old saw's rip fence with a 4-inch tall MagSwitch t-slot extrusion that is attached to a piece of aluminum angle which is screwed to another piece of aluminum angle that rides on an 80/20 10-series 1x2 extrusion front rail. The MagSwitch extrusion is flipped over so its top-face groove is facing down, and a chair slide/furniture leveler with a teflon base is mounted in that groove and rides on the original rear fence rail. A 1/8 thick strip of teflon fits between the aluminum angle and the front extrusion rail. Left-right fence sliding is slightly balky but it's smooth enough for me. Main thing is that it allows for the use of featherboards and hold-downs/stock guides.

I got the guide to help cut kumiko strips accurately and repeatedly. The blank is only 1/2” thick, which is a little short for the bearing. Running it along the tip of the tool below the bearing works, though. On my saw I have to move the fence to the left of the blade due to the location of the t-slots, which is also not a deal breaker. My only complaint is how difficult it is to make micro adjustments to dial in the thickness. I finally got it set, and I’m not touching it again. If I need a different thickness, I’ll buy a second guide. I guess it’s worth the money, but I would pay more to get one that adjusts more easily.

It doesn’t tighten up when pushed against the stock. I had to reposition it twice to keep the cut line straight.

I bought this to make some thin strips about 1/16 to 1/8 inch. I have a delta table saw. The item fit well but does not have much reach. Fully extended I could get only to about 1/2 inch. It seems well built but has limitations.

This 'SMALL' device does not work on my saw table, my bandsaw table, nor my router table. It is meant for the blue rails found on various jigs. If the thumb bolt were bigger and fit my saw table, it might work.