Sharpening Ceramic Whetstone wirepuller of Edge Moss #220 by Shapton

Works well. Takes down metal quickly and effortlessly, ready for the next stage. Definitely a must if you need to reprofile, thin, or correct chips etc. Or just to get a fast edge on an especially blunt knife. For a rough grit, this doesn't seem very soft, which I like. This stone should last a long time. I had an old 220G wet stone, it needed flattening after every use, didn't last long at all. Not the case here. My two cents on sharpening grits; I feel like new sharpeners are scared of coarse grits because they don't want to damage anything, so they tend to start at too fine a grit. It's important to remember the amount of material you remove to get from blunt to sharp is the same regardless of grit. The difference is how many strokes it takes you. It's not a small difference either, if you start with a blunt knife (butter knife) with a 220, 400, 1000, 3000. You could get a mirror polished, hair popping edge in about fifteen minutes, if you started with 1000 or 3000 you could genuinely be there for hours and not achieve what you want. And you would have used up a lot of expensive stone. You can get a shaving sharp edge with (skill) this stone and a strop. The finer grits get you a nice polished egde. Although I think it's generally accepted that 1000G is ideal for dressing a "not too blunt" knife.

It’s one of the best and cheapest stone on the market you can buy , doesn’t need soaking just splash and go

Brilliant stone, unbelievably great workmanship.

This is an ok stone that will certainly get the job done. However it does not have many advantages over a normal waterstone which you can pic up for much less. IT does wear so it's not as good as a quality diamond stone that will never wear pout though you would expect to pay more for theses. on balance i would either get a cheaper waterstone or save up and get a quality diamond stone instead.

A good stone for sure, but vs a diamond stone at the same grit for the same money…..I don’t think there is much competition, diamonds win out. I’m a huge fan of the higher grit Shapton stones, I’m up to 8000 now! But after only three knives, admittedly two scandi grinds and only one kitchen knife there is an obvious bow in the stone already and could do with lapping. The stone works and works well, but the aggression of metal removal is equalled by the loss of stone, not something I have had a problem with in the higher grit stones for the same range. From 1000 grit up they are 5 star stones but this is a soft stone that requires an expensive lapping plate due to their decent size. So yes good stone but if you’re not really into having to stone your edges then diamond might be more the way to go. Lapping plates cost a lot and this stone will need lapping, so I use my diamond plates at this grit. Still a good stone but not really necessary.

It's quite coarse and removes steel very well. If you are certain that this grit is right for your needs, it makes an excellent addition to your sharpening collection. It's really for damaged edges. For blade thinning and overly dull edges, the 320 grit is probably more versatile. You don't really need both, but if you find yourself repairing a lot of knives, this 220 is an efficient place to start.

Una piedra de grano 220 que come mucho material pero el tacto es muy suave, no tengo nada negativo de momento.

The kuromaku 220 and 320 are two must have stones for sharpeners. They are fast cutting and slow wearing stones that handle even steels like super blue at 65rc very well. Now they aren't for steels with high levels of tungsten and or Vanadium carbides but any of your lower alloy steels even if they are ran very hard these stones will do a fine job with. I sharpen zdp189 at 67rc on them all the time and they handle it very well, zdp189 is a high alloy steel with lots of carbides of course but it's chromium carbide mainly and these stones will cut chromium carbide efficiently and effectively. The kuromaku line of stones offers a lot of performance and quality for a very fair price. They are true splash and go stones and that's a huge plus and they aren't messy when sharpening as they don't create any mud, just swarf and they don't load up with steel so that's another huge plus. They come perfectly flat out the box and no lapping needed out the box and that's very nice! I really love these stones and have the full line of them except for the 30k as I don't have a need for it beings I have the 30k shapton glass stone and rarely if ever use the 30k except on straight razors maybe once or twice a year and the 30k stones are very expensive for something that isn't hardly ever used. The 120, 220 and 320 are the cherries of the kuromaku line, they are amazing stones and the extremely fast cutting they are capable of makes them a real gem and 3 that every sharpener should have in their arsenal. Out of the 3 coarse stones if you are only gonna get one I would suggest the 220 as the 320 isn't aggressive enough for heavy reprofiling or larger chip damage repair and the 220 is yet it's not as fast wearing at the 120 is and still cuts steel plenty fast. Personally I only use the 120 for thinning knives and the 220 is for reprofiling and damage correction. The 320 is my start stone to set a fresh bevel and remove fatigued steel on well used and dulled edges and that's what the 320 is perfect for, the 320 is also great if your looking for a fast cutting stone that's a one and done type stone for nice super toothy edges, you can finish on the 320 and have a very aggressive toothy edge if that's what your looking for. The 1k is the best all around stone for most people, it's the perfect one and done stone for home cooks and for general sharpening so long as there is little to no damage to the edge and your not trying to reprofile. The 1k leaves a very sharp edge with high level of keenness and good bite/tooth and is personally the stone I finish most of my cooking knives on as it's the perfect finish for general kitchen knives where you want high keenness but also with good bite. Knives that I use for cutting delicate pieces of fish they will be finished at 8 or 16k but those are knives that are for a specific purpose and require very high levels of keenness with very little bite. Every stone in the kuromaku lineup is very good and each grit has a purpose but for most people the 220, 1000, 5000 will be a pretty well complete set of stones that will cover all their needs. A lot of people will tell you go 320, 1k, 5k but trust me and go 220 instead of the 320 and you will thank me as soon as you have a big chip you need to sharpen out or you are wanting to reprofile a knife that's in a hard and wear resistant steel that's not to say the 320 isn't a great stone because it most definitely is but the 220 will serve most people better just for the fact that it will significantly speed up reprofiling and or damage correction over the 320 and most people aren't going to finish on the 320 anyhow they will go to at least the 1k. These are great quality stones and if you buy them you will be happy and you will have a quality sharpening set that will last you many years and provide you with high performance. The case they come with has great grip on the bottom so when you place the stone in the top of the holder and use it as a sharpening base everything will stay nice and stable for you so a stone vice isn't needed if you don't already have one, the case doubles as a storage case and a sharpening base. Get you some kuromakus and you will be happy!

Some of the best splash and go stones in the market. Highly recommended. Just wish we had a bigger selection available.

Una gran piedra merece la pena lo que cuesta.

The Shapton #220 stone is a course stone that works very well. The non slip feet on the stone holder prevent the stone from moving around whilst one is working. It is removing material from my chisels which is why I bought the stone. It is a useful tool to reset the primary bevel on a dull blade.