Waterlox Original Sealer and Finish, 1 Quart

Waterlox is the best wipe on finish I have ever used. It is my go to finish on all woodworking projects. Easy to apply and provides a good looking durable finish.

This product works great. We decided on a butcher block kitchen countertop and after googling “best sealer”, this was recommended. Put on three coats of the primer/sealer semi gloss. Drops of water bead up and hopefully it will last a long time!

This is an interesting product that you may find has a place in your woodworking arsenal. I tried this after reading a review of a different product on Amazon that touted this as superior. I had been using mostly oil finishes such as tung oil, danish oil and linseed oil based finishes for a satin, natural finish on the boxes I make. And I still love the finish those products create, along with their ease of application. I gave up on high gloss products like polyurethane, because they are fussy to apply (visible brush strokes, runs, drips, clouding, plastic look, long drying time etc.) This product says "medium sheen" on the can, but I consider it to be high gloss, though I'm not an expert by any means. It does require some care when applying. I recommend using thin coats and keeping an eye to head off runs. Definitely use a tack cloth prior to applying to ensure there is no dust for your brush to pick up. I pour a small amount into a small container (I find that the little cans from cat food work well after they are washed and dried), and I discard the leftover product at the end of a coat. I recommend at least 2 coats andsanding in between coats with a very fine paper such as #1500. I was able to achieve a nice glossy finish that seemed to be a hit with my customers. I still prefer the satin finish of oil products, but some people like high gloss and this definitely provides superior protection against water. One addendum: approximately the last quarter of the can was unusable because it turned into a thick, blobby mess, as if all the solvent had evaporated out of it, which shouldn't have happened because I kept the can closed when not in use. I wasn't sure if adding some mineral spirits would have restored it to usability but I wasn't willing to take a chance on it.One more addendum: the number of coats will ultimately be determined by the type of wood and the amount of moisture in the wood. I had one maple burl that was very old and dry. I kept applying coats to the bowl I made from it, but there were several stubborn dry spots that were very thirsty. Eventually, I think I ended up applying about 5 or 6 coats (allowing proper drying time and sanding lightly between coats). The results were well worth it and the multiple coats imparted a beautiful glossy shine.

Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish works well for furniture and items that will likely be in a high use environment. I found that 3 brushed-on coats both sealed and provided a medium to high gloss sheen, and made a good base for a final Waterlox "high gloss" (separate product) finish coat, as shown in the 3rd picture.For this particular project and surface (African Mahogany and Walnut), sanding was down to 320 grit. I also used a grain and pore filler (Aquacoat transparent) on a sealing coat of clear waxless shellac 1 lb cut. Unfortunately, the shellac caused some unacceptable discoloration under the grain filler, and had to be removed through extensive sanding after the 1st coat of Waterlox sealer. Quite laborsome, but the Waterlox sanded out relatively easily. The pore filler was quite tough to sand out. Also, I should have thoroughly tested this approach before applying.Waterlox on the pore filler would have been fine without the shellac base, I believe.Nevertheless, once the surface was again prepared, I used just the Waterlox Original Sealer/ Finish in 3 coats. Out of a fresh can, Waterlox spread quite liberally with a brush, and I had to pay close attention to under-runs along the edges of the work surface, and showed some slumping on the edges as it cured - about a 24 hour period in a well ventilated area. Where there were runs and slumps, I used a 320 grit sandpaper back to a smooth surface after a minimal 24 hour drying time.It is very important to keep the can of Waterlox sealed away from any oxygen to prevent gelling or skimming.I used "bloxygen" (inert gas) sprayed into the can to prevent gelling and skimming, but noted that it did appear a bit more viscous out of the can in the second and third coat applications.Also noted that the applied material tended to pick up anything and everything dust-wise that might be floating in the air, and created "nibbs" over the surface. I worked some of this out with a 1000 grit paper and dry. Although doing so tended to leave some tells within the surface and needed a little extra work with a 3000 grit paper to conceal them.It is also worth mentioning that Waterlox should not be brushed multiple times during an application as it tends to start tacking within a few minutes of exposure to air, and will leave brush marks. Best brush approach I found was to follow the product application directions closely, use a good brush, and only brush-on with two moves - apply once against the grain, then pull with brush tip with the grain one end to other in a single motion. The Waterlox does a good job of flowing and filling to a smooth finish.I would also suggest taking as much time as necessary practicing on culls with this material to assure few mistakes and problems in a keeper piece!Waterlox is an excellent tung oil based finish that I'll use many times on future projects!

This is my first time using Waterlox. I've used many other finishes and prefer oil and wax. I did needed more protection and future repairability on a counter top project for a customer.Use a respirator and be in a WELL VENTILATED area. Take your time to prep your piece, but you already knoew that. This is forgiving atleast on the first two coats. I did use a lint free cloth to apply. Let dry for 24 hours. If when you lightly sand inbetween coats and your sand paper gums up, stop and give it more time to dry.There are tons of reviews and application techniques on you tube. Watch them.I put my oil rags in a metal bucket outside to dry or in my fire pit so I don't burn down my shop.This is my new go to finish.