Honeywell Home RPLS730B1000 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer, White

Great light switch timer that is a great alternative to overpriced smart switches. I was able to install 4 of these myself for my outdoor patio lights (easy to follow instructions on YouTube, but be sure you have the right equipment and you aren’t working with live wires— no contact voltage sensor is a must). Highly recommend!

works great

I installed this timer to control the exhaust fan in a walk-in closet. This walk-in closet has no windows and we are concerned about musty odors building up, and, the possibility of mold due to no air circulation. Our builder installed an exhaust fan with an on-off switch. We wanted to automate the fan and have it turn for several hours daily. We run it a few hours every day but sometimes forget to turn it off or on.This timer is exactly what we wanted. I installed it a few days ago and it's turning the fan on and off at the appointed times (7 AM - 5 PM). We can turn it on/off by pressing the cover, which activates switches in the timer.Here are some comments.MUST USE A TIMER THAT'S RATED FOR A MOTOR. There are a lot of timers out there, most of them control lights. A motor is different because, when the motor first starts, it draws a lot of current -- the startup surge -- then it draws only the amount of current needed to run. Lamp timers may not handle the startup surge. In fact, the first timer I bought (sent it back) said NOT FOR USE WITH MOTOR -- the warning was not in the description.WHICH IS THE LOAD, WHICH IS THE LINE? This timer has three wires that must be connected to NEUTRAL, LOAD (the motor, the light, whatever is being controlled) and LINE (the wire coming from the breaker, carrying current). the box where the switch being replaced was located were two cables, each with white (neutral), black (hot), and ground wires. I could not tell which cable came from the breaker box (line) and which went to the fan (load). SO -- this is what I did.-- Turn off power at the breaker.-- Remove the switch from the box.-- There I found: (1) two white wires tied together with a wire nut; (2) two black wires, one going to one switch terminal, one to another switch terminal.-- I disconnected the black wires from the switch and removed the wire nut from the white wires but left them twisted together.-- MAKE CERTAIN NONE OF THE WIRES IS TOUCHING ANYTHING -- pulled them out of the switch box so I could get to them.-- Went back to the circuit breaker box and turned the breaker on. CAREFUL -- THE WIRES HANGING OUT OF THE SWITCH BOX ARE NOw HOT.-- Used my volt meter -- set it on the 200volts AC scale. Hold one voltmeter lead onto the white wires, then touched the other lead to one of the black wires.-- One black wire will show voltage, the other will show no voltage. The one that shows voltage is the LINE lead because it's carrying voltage from the breaker. The black lead that shows no voltage is the LOAD, going to the fan, light, etc.-- Remember which black lead is which.-- TURN TO BREAKER OFF. Check to make certain there is no voltage on the leads -- voltmeter between white wires and one black wire, then, the other black lead . . . should show zero volts-- Label the LINE and LOAD leads. I used a small piece of duct tape for each with LINE and LOAD written on the tape.-- Wire the timer. (1) Tie the timer's white wire to the two white wires, using the wire nut that's already there. (2) Connect the BLUE wire coming from the timer to the LINE and the BLACK wire from the timer to the LOAD, using the two wire nuts supplied with the timer. (3) If your house has metal electrical boxes, ground the ground wire to the box. If plastic box, just push the ground wires out of the way.Hope this helps.

--- THIS IS A FIRST IMPRESSION REVIEW ---I got this product to replace a standard single pole light switch for my outside garage / driveway lights. What I wanted to do was have the lights come on automatically shortly after sunset, then shut off about 5 hours later, at midnight. This is ideal to save money relative to a simple photo-sensor (which would have the lights on all night), and also keeps me from having to walk into the garage to turn on the lights manually. In this regard, the timer seems to be working exactly as expected.There are some failings with this product, though. First, the printed instructions that come with it are almost completely unhelpful when it comes to installation. I bought a Levitron dimmer switch at a hardware store, and the instructions that came with that were not only very helpful, but exhaustive, and included tips, possible alternate wiring schemes, lots of safety warnings, the works. Even my programmable thermostat came with an extensive detailing of possible wiring schemes in your house and how to make the thermostat work with those schemes. This Honeywell switch quite literally comes with one very simple drawing, and basically says "Wire it so it looks like this, good luck." In other words, unless you're a trained electrician, you might run into some headscratching and/or hairpulling and/or frustration with trying to install this switch.Once you get it installed though, it becomes somewhat difficult to use. I understand that there are very specific constraints that the switch has to be designed around, as far as sizing goes. But the LCD display on this thing is TINY. Some of the text on it, like the "PM" indicator, is probably size 8 font or so. Now, unless you're lightswitch is mounted level with your head (does that even happen?), chances are you will have to crouch down awkwardly to use it. Making this more awkward is the fact the display is not backlight AT ALL. Combine those two things with a slightly recessed display, and it means you'll probably mis-program the switch a few times before you get it right. And again, the instructions for that process are less than helpful, largely because they keep using different terminology for the same thing.One final note, not necessarily a bad thing, but be aware that the programing options are as follows: 7 total PROGRAMS, and a PROGRAM encompasses 8 possible plans: 1 for each day individually, OR all 7 days with the same plan (which is pretty helpful). For each 24 hour day, you can do ONE on/off program. Meaning you can program the light to come on at a time, then turn off at a time, and that's it. So ... in the weird case that you wanted your lights to come on twice a day, that IS NOT POSSIBLE with this switch. However, you can do a temporary "override" simply by clicking the button panel (that sits over the top of the individual programming buttons). When you do this, the timer acts as a simple manual on/off switch until the time of the next on OR off event.Overall, I would recommend this product. I had bought a Intermatic switch of nearly identical design, but be aware that, largley because there is a computer and an LCD display in these switches, they have an operational temperature range. In the case of the Intermatic, it only went down to 32 degrees Farenheit. If you're like me, and you're installing this switch in a garage anywhere north of Mexico, your garage could drop well below that temperature. I checked on this Honeywell, and it's supposed to be good down to 5 degree Farenheit.

Easy to program and easy to read good quality LCD screen