Fotodiox Lens Mount Adapter Compatible with C-Mount CCTV/Cine Lenses to Nikon F-Mount Cameras

Works great easy to install and great for organizing

When I bought this, there was limited information in the description, so I bought it thinking it isn't much money, and it could be returned if it didn't do what I hoped it would. Stuff I wish I was in the description when I bought it:This adapter allows you to mount a fast lens with a 52 mm filter thread backwards on your F mount camera.This must be used in full manual mode on dslr cameras.This worked as intended with our f1.8 35mm lens.This will be less useful with slow lenses, because there won't be enough light to find focus. It worked, but not well enough to try to get any pictures with the 55-200 lense at 55, and didn't work well at all at 200 (to dark to see focus).On our 55-200 zoom lens at least, the zoom ring works as a focus ring, making it so you can get perfect focus on a tripod without a macro mount or moving the tripod. A fast extending barrel zoom with an aperture ring might actually be better with this than a macro prime lens (other than the the manual metering issue many cameras will have with that arrangement).Old lenses might have convenient aperture rings, but modern lenses will require you to manually adjust aperture against minor spring tension. At first I thought I would jam the aperture open with something (delicately), but it turns out that you need to adjust aperture to get good shots handheld. This is because you need light to focus, and you need depth of field to get good macro shots of most stuff (the F1.8 35mm reversed and set to f1.8 doesn't have enough depth of field to put the top and bottom of the mint mark on a coin in focus at the same time). If this paragraph doesn't make sense to you, you are unlikely to be happy with this item.With our 35mm lens reversed, we get somewhere about 2:1 reproduction ratio. That is both awesome, and somewhat frustrating. It is frustrating in that since working distance is how you focus, you can't back up to get a bigger area in the shot. It appears that longer focal lengths give lower reproduction ratios and greater working distances.Still, the image quality we get is stellar (as good as the F1.8 35mm nikkor is capable of frontwards).Unlike the screw-on-the-front macro adapters, or diopter filters, etc, the image quality seems to be as good as the lens you use it with. So picture made with this are harder to make, but excellent quality is possible, not just "excellent for the price."I freaked out when it wouldn't come off of the lens. No worries. The proper procedure for using this is to install it onto the lens finger tight, then install the lens onto the camera. When you are done with it, REMOVE THE LENS first, then the adapter from the camera. This does not have an extremely tight fit to the camera body, and pressing the release button, it comes right off.Update (12/2013): Shortly after the original review back in 2010, I ended up installing this to an old underwater camera lens purchased at full retail (used) for $15. The underwater lens is awesome in that the glass is excellent for the price I paid, and the manual aperture adjustment is a knob that protrudes from the side of the lens body. It was only so inexpensive because no one uses the camera mount it is made for anymore. I highly encourage others to use the same trick. The best photos I've ever taken (ignoring the value of documenting family events)have been with this reversing ring and the $15 old underwater lens. This also avoids the problems some others have had (which I have not) of getting the ring stuck on a nice lens.

I have 5 canon FD lenses: Kalimar 28mm wide angle, Canon 50mm, Vivitar 55mm macro, Tokina 70-210mm zoom and a Vivitar 400mm telephoto.At the time of this writing I have purchased 2 Fotodiox FD-NIKON adapters, used in all the lenses above and I really happy with them. I am buying a third one soon.Is it worth? It depends:If you have a couple of old FD lens, the adapter is a small price to pay to put your lenses back in use, but if you have to buy the lenses and the adapter, you might check the price of a used Nikon lens first.These lenses are great for video as they have aperture rings and they create a creamy look to your footage.You will lose some light (around 0.6 stop) and there is also a crop factor to consider (1.26). If you are using on a D7000 (1.5 crop factor) your 50mm will become closer to a 100mm.This crop factor might be an advantage as you can have a nice telephoto. My Canon 50mm became a nice telephoto with a very thin depth of field.Please consider getting an adapter for each lens, as moving them between lenses is tedious and time consuming and the screws start getting loose after a couple of changes (you can tighten then).If the Locked -Open dial on the adapter is on the open position, you can change the aperture to your heart's content. If it is locked, the lens stays at its widest aperture. I usually set it to locked mode prior of installation and then change it to open and leave it alone forever. If you cannot change the aperture after you installed the adapter, just take it out, change the mode and put it back again.You will notice that the image might be soft on a lens' widest opening and you can fix that by closing a couple of F stops.Using the FD lenses, I have noticed the resulting images to be creamy and soft, almost filmic. You can use that to your advantage when taking photos or shooting video.You MUST to be comfortable shooting in manual mode and you may have to practice it a lot. On the Nikon D7000 you must set the main dial to M and the side lever from AF to M. The D7000 will assist-focus for you, just make sure you get the circle between 2 triangles to light up. You will have to control the aperture yourself and adjust the shutter speed accordingly. I set my camera to auto iso, and set my max iso to 1600 to get me some flexibility when shooting. Please do read the camera manual to make all that work for you.The last advice is to shoot in RAW as it gives you more flexibility to edit the image in Lightroom later and correct in case of under or over exposure. You really don't need to buy Lightroom, but it makes things easier.Ps. I posted some photos taken with the adapter. You can see some softness on the images I took as I use 2.8 and I had a really shallow depth of field; I could get them tack sharp by changing the aperture to 4.0 on my Canon FD 50mm lens. The macro photos taken with the Vivitar 55mm macro illustrate how sharp the photos can be.I hope it helps.