BPS Knives Nighthawk Adventurer - Camping Knife - Fixed-Blade Stainless Steel Survival Knife - Black Leather Sheath and Firestarter - Outdoor Full Tang Knives - Bushcraft Knives

These are very nice knives made of good steel ( both the Carbon and Stainless). I bought the HK6 and Adventure models. BUT - Handmade + massed produced - There's gonna be some variances. These are working knives for savvy workers, hunters, & outdoors types. Yard work here in Texas ( in Texas the yards literally fight back. we have this one plentiful weed that just ignores my machete collection). The knife you get may be perfect. Might not. I knew this going in. Both of mine really kind of needed just a little tender loving care polishing/filing/corner grinding on the tang where it protrudes from the grip all the way around. No Points off for this. Just know it. Both mine had multiple places on the grip where a paper-like cut could happen or scraping off your skin, or just causing a blister. If you absolute require a finely polished & finished tool, pay an extra $100 or so for some other brand. Again - other buyers mention this issue. To fix it is a Very minor, EZ Peasy repair. #1 - Wrap that sharp blade, first thing right off. Preferably with leather, a piece of tire tube, or something. #2 - Blade wrapped - Remove the Two 2.5mm hex screws. 2.5 mm is a common metric hex size. If you own a bicycle or vehicle you work on ( or ever got gifted a tool set that came with a metric hex set - you probably already own one. If not or if you don't want to go digging through your stuff - ANY cheap metric Hex Set should have a 2.5mm wrench with it. Complete set $5-$10 do not pay more. A metric screwdriver hex bit set is also a thing. So take out the screws, they come out easily, the slabs fall off, don't lose any of that stuff. Blade Wrapped ( I'm really pushing safety here. A wrapped blade is better and cheaper and more fun that the ER on a weekend. ), slabs off - you just need to lightly file ( manual or Dremel) around the GRIP portion of the knife blade to smooth & remove sharp EDGES. The stainless will be more difficult than the carbon because it's harder. Wear Goggles - you are doing metal work. Maybe with a power tool. Some have mentioned using Carbide scrapers and the back of the blade of a Utility razor knife. That should work with the carbon blades, but doing that on stainless is a hard "Maybe". 800 grit proper steel sanding sandpaper should work. Not the sandpaper you sand & polish wood with. Me, I had choices and I used a hand file. I may go back, do it again and use a rotary tool ( Dremel).Almost done. So you hopefully got rid of the sharp edges on the tang. And all I'm suggesting is EDGES corners. If you want to start removing more metal than that - You Be You ( safely). So wipe that tang with a tiny bit of oil. Mineral ( Baby) oil would be just fine. put the slabs back so holes line up ( here I suggest using BLUE Loctite on the female threads) and just carefully screw it back together "Snug" not tight & hard. If you lean into tightening you will most probably crack any knife slab, but wood especially.Too tight and it may just snap or weeks or months go by and a humidity change and a crack will appear.All of this reads a lot more difficult that it is. There are YouTube videos on it. I did both of mine together and I am no sort of artisan and everything was done & all good & done including cleanup in under an hour. Maybe 30-40 minutes.

I won’t speak to the value and quality of this knife. Others have covered that topic thoroughly already and I’ll just say that I completely agree - so much so, that I promptly bought a second knife after I lost my first in the woods fighting my way through a large tangle of rhododendrons and saw briar last autumn. I went back to search for it the following day, but the area was thoroughly buried in several inches of newly fallen leaves. The second knife arrived with rumpled paper, and parts jumbled and stuffed in the torn box - completely lacking the impressive presentation of when I unboxed my first knife. Still, I thought, somewhat disappointed, a knife is more than its packaging and the quality of the item itself should be the same, surely? Alas, when I picked it up, the knife felt wrong in my hand. Upon closer examination, I discovered that the tang stood proud of the handle by a noticeable amount - so much so, that I would be in danger of developing blisters were I to use it for any length of time. Unlike my first knife, this was unusable as it arrived. Initially, I had though the fault to be Amazon’s having shipped me a previously returned item without checking it first. This flaw, however, must be in the manufacture of the knife itself - probably why the item had been returned initially. Upon closer examination, I determined that I could probably remove the screws and carve a new handle to sit flush with the tang - the blade itself appeared to be the high quality I had expected. I oiled the blade, handle and sheath and set it aside to deal with later. In about a week or so I pulled out the knife, and was surprised to find that the issue appeared to be trying to correct itself. The tang and handle were closer than before. Huh. I re-oiled the handle, and rather than wiping off the excess, I wrapped the handle in a plastic bag and left it for another week. When I checked on it, the issue had completely disappeared, the handle and tang perfectly flush and the knife comfortable in my hand, ready and eager for its first task. I oiled the handle more frequently than normal for a few months after that, but it’s fine now. I recently used it to debark a dead pine log - worked like a champ with nary a blister! No flaw in the manufacturing after all, just serious neglect. It speaks to the quality of the craftsmanship that the wood could shrink to this degree without splitting or cracking and yet recover itself fully with proper care. Well done, BPS!