Hantek CC-65 AC/DC Multimeter Current Clamp Meter with BNC Connector Up to 20 kHz 20mA to 65A DC

worked great.

This is a must have accessory to have with ANY DSO! I have used it with my bench scope and I have used it with my little open source pocket scope (needed a $5 adapter). Being able to see current flow is hugely helpful in troubleshooting electrical issues esp in automotive applications. Injectors, ignition coils, pumps and motors, you can see how much power any of them are drawing right from the fuse box with a tool like this.For example Imagine being able to see if your power window motor was bad with out taking your door apart. With the right know how you can with this tool. Saves time, saves money and makes things easier. Like all tools you need to know learn how to use it, to unlock its full diagnostic potential, but the actual function of the tool is simple turn it on, clamp it over a conductor, and get a reading. Simple. The only compliant I have is I think that the lead can seem a little short at times but that is easily remidied by using a BNC extension cable. So bottom line if you spent the money on a scope you should buy one of these.

The product works just as described, and measures currents relatively accurately. I've never used a clampmeter before this one, but you have to zero it a few times before use to get good readings. Pro's: Works as advertised Relatively accurate Top quality BNC connector Cons: Made of really cheap plastic - feels like it'll shatter if I ever drop it on a hard floor The jaw, switch and button feel gritty and cheap Its not built to feel like a quality product... but it works for its intended purpose. 4 stars for that.

Funciona bien pronto haré un vídeo sobre el tema

I used other expensive options on the market and this probe is really good, and it is very precise and lest noisy that other expensive ones. The only thing is it should include a better and more detailed documentation and/or manual.

Excelente producto

I have used expensive probes and this unit is a good deal. To measure DC the degauss is required but even the expensive units require this often to get accurate measurements. It seems to degauss the best if the jaws are closed and the power is off on the EUT. It takes about 3 degauss button pushes to really zero out the probe. The only negative is the 20Khz bandwidth. A expensive probe will be +100Khz bandwidth. This unit can be used to tell you if you need to get an expensive probe. Overall this is a minor investment to make non evasive measurements. I recommend adding it to your tool kit.

The unit worked well enough for the first 2 years. It stopped working and I threw it into the "bin". I purchase a different amp clamp that had a better build quality. Last night I decided to make a final determination. Open it up one more time. If I could'nt get it to work it was going to its final resting home. I noticed if the on/off switch was pressed in firmly and held the power light would flash. Maybe there was hope? Opening the unit to get at the internals is something of a rubic cube. There are two metal "paws" retained by the on/off switch against the circuit board. Apparently there were not "springy" enough to make consistent contact with the pads on the circuit board. I re-tensioned the paws, put some Sanchem "A Special" grease on the pads and re-assembled. The clamp came back to life! The zero button still sticks, just have to "jiggle it". Seems like simple "quality issues" for Hantek to remedy with a couple of ECs.

Used for electronic testing

Very happy with this product and it works perfectly.

Super

Exelente atención buen producto

When I first got my new current probe out of the box, I thought it was dead. Plugged the 9v battery (Not Included) into the back, plugged it into my DSO, switched it on, and... nothing. No lights. No change in the level when I hit 'zero', no readings when I clamped it onto the Vin line on my project. Except sometimes when I wiggled the switch just the right way, pressed down on it, the green 'Power' light would flicker for a second. I gave it a little shake, and I could hear a little rattle. I took the hazardous step of opening the back to see what was going on, and the problem was immediately apparent. Instead of using a discrete 3-position dptt switch, there's a hacky little arrangement that's prone to failure if you look at it funny. The plastic switch wiper has a pair of ductile little pieces of bent copper which are retained solely by compression between the wiper and the PCB underneath, and as they slide back and forth they make or break connections between tinned pads on the PCB. I suspect that pressing down too hard on the switch can bend them out of shape and let them fall out of place. It was a fiddly little fix bending them back into shape and lining everything up so it didn't fall apart again when I closed it back up, but it seems to work well enough as a current probe now. Sensitivity is acceptable at 100mv/A. I haven't had time to formally assess the accuracy and frequency response, but it seems to work reasonably at the low frequencies and currents I was using today.