SUPERNIGHT DC 12V Step Up to 24V 20A 480W Boost Converter Waterproof Voltage Regulator for Golf Cart Club Car

I purchased a set of LED strip lights to add to my Jeep for X-mas last season. I was all set to wire up a DC to AC inverter when I noticed the brick (transformer) had a decal that read "Input:120VAC - Output 24VDC". Then it hit me, wait....all LEDs are DC! Why would I go from DC to AC and back to DC? Since most all modern cars use 12VDC, I simply bought this setup box to bump the voltage to 24VDC and it all worked like a charm.

Awesome Product Price and compadability

Work good for my application

I am using this to charge a variety of portable power stations. It outputs about 230 watts. It gets a bit warm, will have to keep an eye on that. I wish the power leads were a heavier gauge. Otherwise, it takes 12v in, puts 24v out, 10-ish amps.

Works great and very well made . Simple install and great wire connections.

Used it to install 24V LED lighting in a 12V enclosed trailer. Works great.

it produced the correct voltage when worked but only lasted a couple of weeks and then died.Update: seller agreed to warranty it and send a replacement. waiting for arrival now.

Works as expected. We had a hacker put in 12V head lighting on the cart by sniping into ONE of the 4 12V batteries. That didn't work out too well for the long run. You can do that but it is not proper and issues with uneven charging of the battery bank and the one battery used will eventually not take a full charge. We also bought 8 watts of new LED lighting (4 watts per side) this is very sufficient as the cart is always back away from the road on wooded cart paths. So we have plenty of extra 12V power we can use for other things (radio, additional lighting, cell phone charging etc.) if we wish. 120W will not power a road legal incandescent lighting array. For those you will need to bump it up to a few hundreds watts at least. However for carts that run on cart paths off road this thing is more then sufficient. I placed a 10A resettable thermal overload on the 12V output side and a 3A in line fuse on the 48V input side to protect the wiring and used 14 ga wire. I also soldered the wiring into the non insulated crimp connectors and wrapped them with electrical tape. Shrink tubing would have been better. Should last forever. UPDATE; The idle current on these things is about 32 watts with the lights off. That is enough to sink a full charge in 5 days at best even with our 7.2KW battery bank. These should be wired in with the on/off switch on the 48V to knock down the regulator too. By the math that's about 10% of our full bank charge a day, but when you take into account the various synergies at work with these lead acid batteries in reality it is closer to 20% over a 24 hour period as these batteries are really only good for 50% discharge of their total rated capacity. If you charge at the end of every day this is not a problem. But if put few miles a day down and do not charge but every now and then this becomes a real issue. I thought the idle current would be 1-2 watts, not 32. So the solution when the switch is mounted on the dash and the regulator placed under the seat at the batteries is to run a 4 conductor lead and pass 48V through the switch and back to the regulator and the 12V conductors from the regulator to the lights and whatever. I used 4 conductor lead because I was also going to put in a batter charge indicator later. So this to me is no big deal. I will just include the modifications when I mount the charge meter.